How would you start?
You are going to lose either way on a vehicle. Having a Rubicon over a Sport model may get you a little better resale value when you go to sell or trade it but not necessarily. Sure it will be worth more then a Sport but you have take in to account your initial extra $10K you spent. Doesn't mean your vehicle won't depreciate any different. It's all relative.
But I see what your saying...
But I see what your saying...
Last edited by SpicedCrusher; May 6, 2014 at 09:08 AM.
How did you get to a $10k difference?
If you go with a Sport are you getting a bare bones with no power, etc? Also, if you did get the Rubi, why would you switch out the lockers to ARB's?
I agree that it depends on your final goal. If just going 35's you can get 4.10's, the axels, the lockers and the T-Case and pretty much be done. If going bigger, the axels and gears will probably be replaced anyways so it doesn't make sense.
If you go with a Sport are you getting a bare bones with no power, etc? Also, if you did get the Rubi, why would you switch out the lockers to ARB's?I agree that it depends on your final goal. If just going 35's you can get 4.10's, the axels, the lockers and the T-Case and pretty much be done. If going bigger, the axels and gears will probably be replaced anyways so it doesn't make sense.
How did you get to a $10k difference?
If you go with a Sport are you getting a bare bones with no power, etc? Also, if you did get the Rubi, why would you switch out the lockers to ARB's?
I agree that it depends on your final goal. If just going 35's you can get 4.10's, the axels, the lockers and the T-Case and pretty much be done. If going bigger, the axels and gears will probably be replaced anyways so it doesn't make sense.
If you go with a Sport are you getting a bare bones with no power, etc? Also, if you did get the Rubi, why would you switch out the lockers to ARB's?I agree that it depends on your final goal. If just going 35's you can get 4.10's, the axels, the lockers and the T-Case and pretty much be done. If going bigger, the axels and gears will probably be replaced anyways so it doesn't make sense.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I will likely stick with the rubi even though ultimately it will have 60s under it I don't mind having something to work on later
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I would be willing to bet that the stock e-lockers in a Rubicon are more reliable than ARB lockers. Notice I said "more reliable", and not "stronger", there is a difference. I've owned 4 Rubicons and never had a problem with the stock e-lockers. And I've been a trail leader at the Easter Jeep Safari in Moab, UT, for 13 years, so I've led thousands of 4x4s over trails that need lockers. I absolutely guarantee that if I hear on the radio that someone is having a problem with their locker not working, it is going to be someone with an ARB locker, every single time.
The e-lockers, sway bar disconnect, and rock sliders are what make a Rubicon worth getting. The transfer case is geared too low for most four wheeling if you have an auto trans (which most JKs have). If you're not going to use the stock lockers then it makes absolutely no sense to get a Rubicon. Just my .02.
The e-lockers, sway bar disconnect, and rock sliders are what make a Rubicon worth getting. The transfer case is geared too low for most four wheeling if you have an auto trans (which most JKs have). If you're not going to use the stock lockers then it makes absolutely no sense to get a Rubicon. Just my .02.
If you're absolutely going to tear out the factory parts from the get-go, the only real reason for a Rubicon is to sell the factory gear or if you wanted to keep the 4:1 transfer case. Sounds like a built Sport is in your future.
Me, I knew I wanted factory axles, transfer case and more and wasn't going to change it so the Rubicon was perfect.
Me, I knew I wanted factory axles, transfer case and more and wasn't going to change it so the Rubicon was perfect.


