Shocks?
Didn't see that on the list.

 

Yeah but the arms are only $350, combine that with BD and its $700, but gears are aroung $1200. Do I need a rear trac bar for sure? I thought a bracket was enough since that is what almost all the lift kits include.

Yeah I think I would relocate because eventually I want to move the muffler where the evap is now.

Well, like I said I will only be doing some crawling not a lot and I need the BD to get back some HP and MPGs and also to correct the computer.

Yep I have Bilstein 5100s on there. I know that's not your favorite kind though

 

LOL Didn't even see them.

 

I did similar to you... Running 35's with a d30 but I did a little more axle mods... Inner sleeves and chromoly shafts. I also did the gears... 4.88's with a manual tranny. IMO the one thing you are really going to miss are the gears. I know it is more money but I think definitely worth it.

 

looks good might need to grab some rear coil correction spring wedges, evap skid ...my

 

Yeah sleeves are definitely on my radar but I think I will stick with my stock shafts because I would rather them break than the gears. I think I am going to get lift and tires first then see if I can live with the stock gears, if not I will forget the or-fab and 5th wheel and tire and get new gears.

Hmm... I didn't think about the wedges. I will probably wait until everything is installed and make sure I would actually need them.

 

I recently went through the same dilemma when purchasing my mods. I wasn't able to stay under $5K. However, I kept total cost down closer to my budget by holding off on rear UCAs and a tire carrier in favor of larger (numerically) gears. Good luck, you'll have a damn nice rig when it's all done.

 

I am looking at going with a 3" lift and 35" and price wise I am almost $1K less than you.

Here are my thoughts:
Ditch the new wheels and run spacers on your current wheels. (Save ~$600)
AEV Pro-Cal to correct the computer. (Save ~$200)
Unless you want the OR-FAB carrier you could go with with the Bestop (HighRock 4x4) tire carrier. (Save ~$250)

So by my executive math that could reduce the cost by $1050.

If you are going to be on the road 95% of the time why go with a M/T? You might be able to lower that price by going with an A/T.

 

If it is a 95% DD, why: Nitto Trail Grapler M/T x5 1528.75
I would look at other tires

 

i would not recommend the rough country arms. the bushing seemed to be very cheap and i went through 3 sets of them in 2 months. spend your money right on that stuff.