Hi,

I replaced my axle with a Rubi axle in the rear of my Sahara. Works great. Lockers are not hooked
up yet though.
What are these two electrical connections for? Which one is the locker? How did you guys run the wire or wires for the lockers? Where to? And through where in the firewall?
This is a pic of the front that I am installing in two days.


And which is the better option to connect my front driveshaft to?
The flange type or the U-shaped one? I have both ends for the driveshaft too.



or



I'm sure I am forgetting more questions....
Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

I can not see your pictures b/c I am at work and the host is denying them, but the electrical connector higher on the housing is the locker activate/deactive switch. If you want to email the pics to me at sheintz7@gmail.com I can look at them and let you know which is which for 100% sure, but easiest way is the one highest on the dif housing is the activate connection. At least it was on mine and believe mine are 08 rubicon axles...

The other is the sensor which would normally turn on the dash light when activate or blink if it cannot activate. However, you won't be doing a dash light, so don't worry about that one... you don't need to do anything with it, but you COULD wire it to a mountable LED above your switch if you wanted the functionality of a light to show you its engaged. You will know without a light though.

All you do is wire to a 12v source - power and ground - through a switch. Simple as that. All the locker needs to engage/disengage is a signal from 12v source. You don't even need a relay, but I used one and a fuse just because; but really isn't needed.

If you don't have the male plug from the harness, you'll need to get a harness from dealer or quadratec ($75 or so) bc you can't wire directly to the axle female connector - its just hard plastic with two holes in it. If you do have that, great, just splice your wires onto that male connector.

I put two covered toggle switches (fighter jet style) on the center panel by shifter. Covered b/c I didn't want them to activate while driving in 2WD... they will activate in 2WD, 4HI, or 4LO unlike factory setup which will only activate in 4LO.

Let me know if you need more than that, but it is really simple to wire these up outside the OEM ECU/CANBUS system. Trust me, you don't want to try to go through the system to wire these.

 

Thanks for the info!
I will run them exactly like you stated. I sent you an email with the picture.

 

Anybody have an opinion on the driveshaft attachment issue I'm having?

I have two front aftermarket driveshaft's.
Each with a different attatchment.
One is a flat circle type and the other a u-joint type attachment. See pics above!
Which is better?

 

Toss those CV flanges and go with yoke adapters. My Jeep has been in the shop for the last 2 weeks waiting on parts. My rear driveshaft is bent out 1/8th of an inch, completely shot. The front has to be rebuilt. I have the JE Reel CV Flanges -The flat adapter pictured above- that run with the OEM CV flanges @ the transfer case and axles. The CV style flanges force the drive lines to run @ increased angle, they also increase drive line vibrations that will eventually cause failure of some type.

I'm switching up to yoke adapters -The U-Shaped adapter in the last pic- @ all axle/T-Case connections (Coast brand). A few other members here have suffered the same OEM CV flange issues I have. All suggested switching to Yoke adapters.

 

Thanks Runit3!
I figured for the most part..but just had to ask!