Installing driveshaft
JK Super Freak
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 1
From: clinton, ok
Since there are no hubs to unlock on the JK I wouldn't replace my driveshaft with anything after market. That cv joint they use is not designed to be in used at highway speeds for prolonged periods of time. I have seen what happens to full size trucks when they don't put their hubs in freewheel also, the same thing that happens to JKs, the t-case blows up when the joint fails.
JK Freak
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 906
Likes: 3
From: Dallas, TX
I followed the guide on the Project JK site. I didn't use the dust cover off the oem b/c it wasn't the same size so I knew it would just spin around.
The only problem we had was our 1 1/8 inch socket didn't have a thin enough wall to install the pinion nut. We were calling around trying to find someone with a thin wall 1 1/8 inch socket but ended up trying a 1 1/8 impact socket and it fit!
The only problem we had was our 1 1/8 inch socket didn't have a thin enough wall to install the pinion nut. We were calling around trying to find someone with a thin wall 1 1/8 inch socket but ended up trying a 1 1/8 impact socket and it fit!
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Norwalk, Ca
Originally Posted by genesbro
Since there are no hubs to unlock on the JK I wouldn't replace my driveshaft with anything after market. That cv joint they use is not designed to be in used at highway speeds for prolonged periods of time. I have seen what happens to full size trucks when they don't put their hubs in freewheel also, the same thing that happens to JKs, the t-case blows up when the joint fails.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by genesbro
Since there are no hubs to unlock on the JK I wouldn't replace my driveshaft with anything after market. That cv joint they use is not designed to be in used at highway speeds for prolonged periods of time. I have seen what happens to full size trucks when they don't put their hubs in freewheel also, the same thing that happens to JKs, the t-case blows up when the joint fails.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 1
From: clinton, ok
On full size trucks there is no cv joint in the rear, only in the front. We are constantly having people who don't unlock their hubs come in and complaining of a vibration and that joint is in the process of failing. When it totally fails the vibration gets so bad that it tears the tcase apart. So we have to remind them to keep the hubs unlocked on the highway. Most of them have automatic hubs that are vaccum controlled and when they get a leak they will lock them in manually and just leave them.
The stock JK joints are designed so they won't have that type of failure. It would be nice if the after market people could make the longer shafts so that we could use the factory style joints and avoid the risk to our tcase. I know the automatics have a spot where the stock shaft can experience boot snag and then a tear. I think from pictures I have seen that spot can be trimmed off without affecting the pan which is what I would do.
If you have to use after market shafts just be sure and check that cv joint reguarlly. If you can grab it and move it in any direction then it is going bad. The bad part is when that dang joint goes bad the shops that replace them will charge so much that you might as well just buy another new shaft. We had found a shop here that would replace them for us and after getting the bill back from them on that one we don't get them repaired any longer, we just order a new one from the vehicle manufacturer.
So just keep an eye on the cv joint when that is the way you have to go in order to get the length you need. Some of them have a spot where you use the needle type of grease fitting to help prolong the life of that ball in the middle where the failure occurs at. If yours has that fitting be sure and keep it greased at each oil change at least.
The stock JK joints are designed so they won't have that type of failure. It would be nice if the after market people could make the longer shafts so that we could use the factory style joints and avoid the risk to our tcase. I know the automatics have a spot where the stock shaft can experience boot snag and then a tear. I think from pictures I have seen that spot can be trimmed off without affecting the pan which is what I would do.
If you have to use after market shafts just be sure and check that cv joint reguarlly. If you can grab it and move it in any direction then it is going bad. The bad part is when that dang joint goes bad the shops that replace them will charge so much that you might as well just buy another new shaft. We had found a shop here that would replace them for us and after getting the bill back from them on that one we don't get them repaired any longer, we just order a new one from the vehicle manufacturer.
So just keep an eye on the cv joint when that is the way you have to go in order to get the length you need. Some of them have a spot where you use the needle type of grease fitting to help prolong the life of that ball in the middle where the failure occurs at. If yours has that fitting be sure and keep it greased at each oil change at least.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Norwalk, Ca
On full size trucks there is no cv joint in the rear, only in the front. We are constantly having people who don't unlock their hubs come in and complaining of a vibration and that joint is in the process of failing. When it totally fails the vibration gets so bad that it tears the tcase apart. So we have to remind them to keep the hubs unlocked on the highway. Most of them have automatic hubs that are vaccum controlled and when they get a leak they will lock them in manually and just leave them.
The stock JK joints are designed so they won't have that type of failure. It would be nice if the after market people could make the longer shafts so that we could use the factory style joints and avoid the risk to our tcase. I know the automatics have a spot where the stock shaft can experience boot snag and then a tear. I think from pictures I have seen that spot can be trimmed off without affecting the pan which is what I would do.
If you have to use after market shafts just be sure and check that cv joint reguarlly. If you can grab it and move it in any direction then it is going bad. The bad part is when that dang joint goes bad the shops that replace them will charge so much that you might as well just buy another new shaft. We had found a shop here that would replace them for us and after getting the bill back from them on that one we don't get them repaired any longer, we just order a new one from the vehicle manufacturer.
So just keep an eye on the cv joint when that is the way you have to go in order to get the length you need. Some of them have a spot where you use the needle type of grease fitting to help prolong the life of that ball in the middle where the failure occurs at. If yours has that fitting be sure and keep it greased at each oil change at least.
The stock JK joints are designed so they won't have that type of failure. It would be nice if the after market people could make the longer shafts so that we could use the factory style joints and avoid the risk to our tcase. I know the automatics have a spot where the stock shaft can experience boot snag and then a tear. I think from pictures I have seen that spot can be trimmed off without affecting the pan which is what I would do.
If you have to use after market shafts just be sure and check that cv joint reguarlly. If you can grab it and move it in any direction then it is going bad. The bad part is when that dang joint goes bad the shops that replace them will charge so much that you might as well just buy another new shaft. We had found a shop here that would replace them for us and after getting the bill back from them on that one we don't get them repaired any longer, we just order a new one from the vehicle manufacturer.
So just keep an eye on the cv joint when that is the way you have to go in order to get the length you need. Some of them have a spot where you use the needle type of grease fitting to help prolong the life of that ball in the middle where the failure occurs at. If yours has that fitting be sure and keep it greased at each oil change at least.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Norwalk, Ca
I got lucky and am going to be able to use my Dads lift. He built drag boats back in the day so i have access to his tools as well. Changing out a driveshaft in Moab sounds like fun given the circumstances were favorable and was by choice not by Murphy's Law. Even then, its the stories and friends that make the adventure
