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Modified JK TechTech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.
PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM
SV - my Chev manifold is plastic but it is torqued down to only 80 in.lbs which is 7 ft lbs. and has special gaskets that expand and contract. Wouldn't surprise me if the Jeep are plastic (never ever needed to check this)- you know saving money on manufacture to charge more on the sale.
So you said the plenum was very similar- could it be a direct bolt on and is there any reason to go aluminum over the plastic (aside from awesome looks instead of a hunk of plastic)?
It is a direct bolt-on with exception that some of the vacuum ports are in different locations and the metal tube (from EGR maybe?) mounts differently. The bolts pattern to the lower manifold is the same. The stock Jeep manifold uses orings to seal upper/lower manifolds whereas aluminum one uses a gasket.
here’s a pic of my Jeep’s stick manifold.
I want to switch to an aluminum one so that I can cut out a section along the top and weld on a flat Al plate to mount the SC for direct feed into the plenum Also the Al one should easily support the weight of the SC.
Last edited by tomjones20194; Jan 25, 2021 at 01:37 PM.
Wait... you guys are saying the whole upper intake manifold is plastic? You sure it’s not just a painted aluminum? I’d be surprised if it were plastic and they’re holding up to thousands of heat cycles and tens of thousands of miles.
It’s plastic.
the lower manifold it still aluminum.
Last edited by tomjones20194; Jan 25, 2021 at 01:38 PM.
Keep up the work and we'll keep following. Thanks for answering the question. Those metal tubes for the EGR are easily broken if you don't carefully remove it and (as of a few years ago) they were pricey and tough to come by. I bought one for $20 (used obviously) and it lives with the rest of my "I hope I never need this, but I have it just in case" parts.
Received the supercharger earlier this week. Here are a few pics. It’s a twin screw design. Will make over 17psi of boost. But I’m planning to keep boost around 10psi max for my Jeep.
After some more research, I’m now debating on the layout. If I mount charger directly to upper plenum then I could mount TB directly to inlet which would put it facing the firewall. Or I could route a hard u-pipe or 90deg pipe to mount the TB away from the firewall.
But the last couple of days I’ve been considering adding an intercooler so I’ll need to plumb some tubing to make it all work.
The two bolt port is for a bypass valve. I plan on blanking that off.
Last edited by tomjones20194; Jan 30, 2021 at 04:37 PM.
So the throttle body is going to face the firewall? Won't that be a tight fit? That 2 mounting bolt port is boost control is it not?
The fit will be tight. Here is a pic of the SC sitting on top of the plenum in roughly the right place, if I go the direct mount route. I have the TB plate removed and will need to build one with a 90 deg bend (or greater) to mount my Jeep’s TB. Also I will need to notch the plenum and build a recess to allow the SC to sit down further into it. As it is now, the hood would not close. The SC is about 6” in diameter
Last edited by tomjones20194; Jan 31, 2021 at 10:12 AM.
Folks - haven’t posted in a while but I am continuing to work on my home brew supercharger modification. I’ve got most of the disassembly done and am working on design/fab of the mounting brackets. I bought a set of long tube headers to go with this. And I invested in HPTuners programmer. I’m going to try to do the tuning myself.
Could anyone tell me the brand/part number for the fuel injector used in the RIPP kit? thanks Tom