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JCR Axle Truss

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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 04:31 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by karls10jk
I did a 44 truss for a friend on stands in my garage. We left the fluid in there and just went slow. We didn't use the fiberglass blanket because we kept the heat low and slow. I'm using the harbor freight special with .035 and mixed gas. It came out really nice and I told him to thrash away.

We did not weld his tubes to the diff but I did weld my rear tubes to the diff. His truss was the Artec, but I'd like to try out a Barnes 4wd truss.

Also- we left the bj's in place and did the C gussets without cooking them. Again- go slow and control yourself. Small stitches and move elsewhere.
Ok great, thanks. So no preheat on the center cast section?
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 04:48 PM
  #22  
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Preheat on the center is absolutely recommended and when you hear the first bead start to pull away from the cast, you'll know why. We tried to keep the heat localized there with overlapping beads but even then, we got a point where we decided it was welded there "good enough". The rest of the structure is so hefty that I'd be surprised if those few small passes on the center made any significant difference when it comes down to it.

My opinion, your mileage may vary, and of course everyone is entitled to their own opinion.
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 04:45 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Chuck-The-Ripper
I'm pretty sure the center section is cast steel not iron. I'm not 100% on this, but I know the knuckles are and putting a magnet to each they feel about the same. I mig welded mine and they held up nicely I don't think that would be the case if it is iron.
The center section is NODULAR IRON. It is not cast steel. I've spoken with FCA engineers as well as Dana Spicer tech support multiple times and the answer is always the same.

I believe the process we used was TIG braising with Ni-55. Preheat, post-heat, and wrap with a fiberglass blanket for slow cooling.
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 06:22 AM
  #24  
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Realizing that I am late to the party I just want to give my .02 on the JRC truss vs the Artec Truss or Barnes 4x4 truss. Here is my thoughts, JCR does not have the option for an integrated raised track bar bracket like the Artec and Barnes do. With that bing said additional money will need to be spent to get a raised track bar bracket to get the drag link and track bar as parallel as possible to reduce bump steering.

I have had an Artec Truss on my D30 and currently have the Barnes4x4 truss on Unlitmate 44 specicially for the raised track bar bracket. I also like buying parts from companies that are specialist in a certain field like Artec which specializes in trusses and Barnes which started out specializing in builder componets.

Again JMHO.

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Will
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 04:21 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Canvas
Realizing that I am late to the party I just want to give my .02 on the JRC truss vs the Artec Truss or Barnes 4x4 truss. Here is my thoughts, JCR does not have the option for an integrated raised track bar bracket like the Artec and Barnes do. With that bing said additional money will need to be spent to get a raised track bar bracket to get the drag link and track bar as parallel as possible to reduce bump steering.

I have had an Artec Truss on my D30 and currently have the Barnes4x4 truss on Unlitmate 44 specicially for the raised track bar bracket. I also like buying parts from companies that are specialist in a certain field like Artec which specializes in trusses and Barnes which started out specializing in builder componets.

Again JMHO.

R/
Will
So with the JCR truss, or any truss in general, I would need to get a raised track bar bracket?

Might be a dumb question but you don't know until you ask.
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 04:23 PM
  #26  
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You only need and can only use a front raised trackbar bracket if you have a high steer setup or flipped drag link.

Northridge 4x4
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 04:39 PM
  #27  
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Which is where you should be with 3.5"+, high steer.

The catch on the truss is that you've got to have 2.5" (if I'm recalling correctly) to even install a truss without contacting everything.
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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 01:45 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by karls10jk
Which is where you should be with 3.5"+, high steer.

The catch on the truss is that you've got to have 2.5" (if I'm recalling correctly) to even install a truss without contacting everything.
Im running a 2.5, so I shouldn't have any clearance issues with a truss and I don't need a high steer, right?
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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 02:54 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by blamb0830
Im running a 2.5, so I shouldn't have any clearance issues with a truss and I don't need a high steer, right?
For now you are running 2.5 but that can always change.

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Will
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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 04:00 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Canvas
For now you are running 2.5 but that can always change.

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Will
It is almost like you read my mind. I've been thinking about going to 3.5.
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