Oh ya thats right, I forgot that simply setting toe in to factory specs (which should not change with a 4" lift) corrects roll center, increases caster, reduces axle shift, regains wheel base, and removes the stress from the steering set up. Good catch!

 

You can't realistically install a 4" lift on a JK that doesn't include at least front lower and rear upper control arms and expect it to handle properly. Just looking at the OP's list of parts that came with the RC kit makes me nervous....cam bolts, track bar drop & pitman arm? Welcome to the dark side.....

 

It's called "rough" country for a reason

4" of lift is overkill for 35s. Read dirtmans link in his signature. RC has this horrible habit of designing JK lifts like they did for TJs. Have yet to come across a properly lifted JK that drove well requiring a drop pitman arm. Research research research. Lots of good info here to help solve your issue. Good luck.

 

This ^^^^^. X 100......

 

Thanks a lot for all the info. I will do some research on all of your comments.
One more question. What lift would yall recommened if I wanted to swap out lifts? Thanks again.

 

Depends on if you want to stay in that lift height range. AEV, RK, TeraFlex, EVO. Just a few

 

X 1000

I'm running a TeraFlex Budget Boost 2.5" front and 2" rear with flat fenders and 35s, my jeep rides and handles great. I'm not the tallest jeep in Denver on 35s but I can go more places than the others because my center of gravity is lower and the stability is extreamly better than other jeeps I've riden in. Big thanks to Dirtmans Sticky, I may never get rid of this jeep barring I stay away from the dealership and the Diesel JK.

 

R/C Make good products as good and R/E and many others. There 4" kit is a starter kit you just need to order a set of there front control arms and drop brackets would also recommend a switching to the N2.0 shocks to get ride back and either get a drop pitman arm or do a dag link flip. My wife Daily drives hers on 4" rough country x series on 40" tires and it rides and drive great.

 

Yea I started with a RC 4" inch lift......I think the only thing I still have that is RC is the rear Track bar Bracket.

The shocks I never even installed I sold them the day I got the kit and bought Fox 2.0's.
I was a newbie and didn't realize the mistake I was making by cutting my Control arm brackets so I could install cam bolts. I ended up have to make plates to weld onto the brackets to fix that and bought Tera Flex adjustable LCA's in order to fix my caster.

The only smart thing I did was I ordered a Evo Drag-link Flip kit at the same time as my lift (because of the little amount of research I had done) So I used the front track bar bracket from that and relocated my steering stabilizer to connect to that bracket. This also prevented me from having to use that stupid drop pitman arm.

After about 3 months the Jeep started leaning. I guess the added weight of bumpers and recovery gear was just to much for RC springs. So I had to replace them (which for now I have EVO plush rides)

I was still unhappy with the ride quality. So I invested in a TF Monster Adjustable Front Track-bar which helped me to center my axle under the Jeep.

When flexing I was putting incredible stress on my break lines due to the fact that they are just not long enough to compensate for the added flex. So I invested in some extended Crown brake lines.

I'm still in the market for UCA's in the rear. But Whoever said it would take about $1-2K more just to get your RC 4inch to ride right and be safe....is correct (and that was with me doing all work myself). And if I could do it all over again I would but a complete kit and save my money.

Also, I constantly do the chalk test to ensure I am not only wearing my tires properly but over inflated tires didn't help the drive-ability any. Just a few psi can make a world of difference.