JK 4 door + 37s = new driveshaft(s)?
#1
JK 4 door + 37s = new driveshaft(s)?
With all of the 4 door JK pics with 37s, I'm wondering who needed new driveshafts. If you didn't need a new driveshaft, which lift kit did you buy?
If you needed a new driveshaft, which one did you buy? How much did it set you back?
I'm planning on a 4" lift and 37s. If a new driveshaft or two is required, I'll add that to the list...
:confused:
-a2kl
If you needed a new driveshaft, which one did you buy? How much did it set you back?
I'm planning on a 4" lift and 37s. If a new driveshaft or two is required, I'll add that to the list...
:confused:
-a2kl
#2
a2kl,
After all of the research that I have done I have concluded that on a 4" lift kit a front driveline would be a must and a rear driveline would be highly recommended. Keep in mind I am not speaking from experience but only countless hours of research. Good luck and post pics when complete.
Stupid Hurts! Drive it like you stole it
After all of the research that I have done I have concluded that on a 4" lift kit a front driveline would be a must and a rear driveline would be highly recommended. Keep in mind I am not speaking from experience but only countless hours of research. Good luck and post pics when complete.
Stupid Hurts! Drive it like you stole it
#3
JK Freak
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ypsilanti, MI
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What immediate benefits would you gain from having a new driveshaft? If you aren't seriously wheeling, don't worry about it until it breaks. You're only saving money if it doesn't. Now if you wheel away from civilization on a regular basis, then yes it may be worth it. MOstly it will just wear out quicker.
#4
Sponsoring Vendor
If you are planning on running 37's, especially with stock gearing, I would highly recommend changing drive shafts. The load of the new taller tire is going to put a greater strain on the driveshaft. The strength of the factory drive shaft is decieving. It has a huge outer tube with a new slip yoke design, but it tapers down to about an inch at the all new small True cv joints.
I personally recommend regearing and changing drivelines . I am running 5.13 Superior Gears and J.E Reel drivelines with 1350 u-joints. By changing the gear ratio, it lightens the load on the drive shaft and gives you a power boost. With the 1350 u joints, It makes your driveshaft very strong, limiting your chances of breaking.
I personally recommend regearing and changing drivelines . I am running 5.13 Superior Gears and J.E Reel drivelines with 1350 u-joints. By changing the gear ratio, it lightens the load on the drive shaft and gives you a power boost. With the 1350 u joints, It makes your driveshaft very strong, limiting your chances of breaking.
Last edited by Evolution; 02-13-2007 at 08:27 PM.
#5
JK Freak
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Ukiah CA. (nor-cal)
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am planing on changing the drive lines when I step up to 37's so I'm not knocking that. but EVO can you give a little more about your last comment about "especially with stock gearing " I don't think that what gears you run it the axles have anything to do with if you run a "CV" type driveline or a "U-joint" style. the only problem that has ever been mentioned about the "CV"(stock) style driveline's are the angles wearing out the boot which holds the grease thus causing the goint to fail due to lack of lubrication....
#6
Sponsoring Vendor
I am more concered about the stenth of the stock drive shafts and CV . If it is just a lubication issue we could probly find another cv boot that could hold up to the greater angle.
Trending Topics
#8
Sponsoring Vendor
DHO
They could last forever driving to the store and back or normal street driving. I personally did not want to take the chance of breaking down on rough trails like Sledge Hammer with a part that can't be picked up at the local parts store. I believe the 1350 u joints are far superior to the stock cv.
They could last forever driving to the store and back or normal street driving. I personally did not want to take the chance of breaking down on rough trails like Sledge Hammer with a part that can't be picked up at the local parts store. I believe the 1350 u joints are far superior to the stock cv.
#9
JK Freak
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Ukiah CA. (nor-cal)
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yea I'm with you on that with out a doubt. like I said earlier I'll be running U-joint style shafts myself (will probably build and not buy), even if the stock setup is strong it's not the "if I break" its the "when I brake" factor and if you don't have a extra complete drive line as a back up then your going to be kinda screwed with the stock setup...
so for the original poster of this thread if you want to take the chance then take it but from what I have heard the ONLY reason that the lift companys are saying that you need a new drive line is because of the angle of the driveline wearing out the boot which causes failure of the joint, it's not a strength issue nor is it a binding issue....
so for the original poster of this thread if you want to take the chance then take it but from what I have heard the ONLY reason that the lift companys are saying that you need a new drive line is because of the angle of the driveline wearing out the boot which causes failure of the joint, it's not a strength issue nor is it a binding issue....
Last edited by dhoffroad; 02-13-2007 at 09:57 PM.
#10
What immediate benefits would you gain from having a new driveshaft? If you aren't seriously wheeling, don't worry about it until it breaks. You're only saving money if it doesn't. Now if you wheel away from civilization on a regular basis, then yes it may be worth it. MOstly it will just wear out quicker.