JK for Snow
What makes a good setup for wintery driving and wheeling?
I only live in PA right now but I have plans to move north pretty soon and playing in the snow
I only live in PA right now but I have plans to move north pretty soon and playing in the snow
Last edited by 88Crusher; Feb 19, 2008 at 03:25 PM.
If you can afford it.....look at the mattracks and check out the video clips in the snow.
http://www.mattracks.com/
http://www.mattracks.com/
For a deep snow i use narrow tires, to dig thru and get a grip, also less resistance during forward motion in a snow over 1 foot deep. Snow means less friction between tire and a surface. Also it makes a difference if it is wet snow, old or new snow, or a really cold out there (-15 celsius and below) as these snow/water particles and molecyles behave differently in each of these mentioned cases but not only.
Last edited by wgr; Feb 20, 2008 at 10:08 AM.
I have lived in northern Wisconsin all my life. With lake effect snow and getting at times 300 inches of snow, yes I said 300 inches in a year, I have some experience. I'm 44 years old and have a fleet of 51 business cars and trucks; I'm a volunteer fire fighter, worked for 15 years driving ambulance and friends on the sheriff department. I know about driving in the snow and tires.
You can add this, that, and the other thing but, when it comes down to brass tacks, it's all about the tires and the weight.
Most of your snow will be on a road. If it is hard packed, not ice, the factory wranglers are great. Options such as limited slip, positive traction, or whatever the terms are these days will help allot. I have had light snow coming over the hood into the windshield and still didn't get stuck. I have never been in the position to be in that much snow that I didn't have traction either from the snow base or the ground itself. As far as having bigger tires, go taller, not wider!!! Tires that have more rubber will bite less unless, you’re in three feet of hardened snow. I have seen this once in my life were the larger mudder did better than a "Pizza Cutter" tire.
Weight is a topic you have little choice over. But if you want traction in the snow, adding weight is critical. You would be amazed what a couple of filed sand bags will do.
You can add this, that, and the other thing but, when it comes down to brass tacks, it's all about the tires and the weight.
Most of your snow will be on a road. If it is hard packed, not ice, the factory wranglers are great. Options such as limited slip, positive traction, or whatever the terms are these days will help allot. I have had light snow coming over the hood into the windshield and still didn't get stuck. I have never been in the position to be in that much snow that I didn't have traction either from the snow base or the ground itself. As far as having bigger tires, go taller, not wider!!! Tires that have more rubber will bite less unless, you’re in three feet of hardened snow. I have seen this once in my life were the larger mudder did better than a "Pizza Cutter" tire.
Weight is a topic you have little choice over. But if you want traction in the snow, adding weight is critical. You would be amazed what a couple of filed sand bags will do.
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If your looking for the ideal setup, have two sets of tires and rims. Larger tires chrome wheels for spring, summer, amd fall. Then get a set for the snow, so the salt can eat away a set of less expensive wheels.
If you can afford it.....look at the mattracks and check out the video clips in the snow.
http://www.mattracks.com/
http://www.mattracks.com/
Dave


