JK Wandering on highway
Max caster? You must have a vendetta out for your front driveshaft. You want caster at about 5*. One side should be slightly less to accommodate the crown in most roads.
Wandering is also often a symptom of incorrect toe. Go to an alignment shop that has the nice Hunter alignment rack. Tell them the specs you want (toe within stock spec, caster slightly above with the highest being 5*). They'll also correct your rear toe (angle of rear axle relative to front).
If you lengthened your wheelbase as mic as you say, be sure to check clearance while cycling the suspension. I'd be surprised if there aren't some issues.
Wandering is also often a symptom of incorrect toe. Go to an alignment shop that has the nice Hunter alignment rack. Tell them the specs you want (toe within stock spec, caster slightly above with the highest being 5*). They'll also correct your rear toe (angle of rear axle relative to front).
If you lengthened your wheelbase as mic as you say, be sure to check clearance while cycling the suspension. I'd be surprised if there aren't some issues.
Big Ron...
I've done my entire alignment by myself in my driveway, if you were closer to Mickey Mouse, I'd lend a hand. You have a 2 or 4 door? It's been said the Fox ATS Steering Stabilizer really helps with the wondering on a 2dr.
Max caster? You must have a vendetta out for your front driveshaft. You want caster at about 5*. One side should be slightly less to accommodate the crown in most roads.
Wandering is also often a symptom of incorrect toe. Go to an alignment shop that has the nice Hunter alignment rack. Tell them the specs you want (toe within stock spec, caster slightly above with the highest being 5*). They'll also correct your rear toe (angle of rear axle relative to front).
If you lengthened your wheelbase as mic as you say, be sure to check clearance while cycling the suspension. I'd be surprised if there aren't some issues.
Sure, I made it up.
The actual angle of each wheel is obviously fixed. Let's assume they are perfectly straight (I.e. 0* of toe). Let's say I put all adjustable arms on the rear of your jeep and on one side I set the arms 1/4" longer than the other side. Put it on an alignment rack and it shows rear toe as one side being negative and the other positive. The arms need to be adjusted so that the toe relative to the vehicle is set back to 0.
If a person gets adjustable rear arms, the toe is the measure that needs to be adjusted so both sides are equal (I.e. Rear axle is perfectly perpendicular to the frame).
I'm pretty much a newb, so I'm sure you're right though. Hopefully, people listen to you and not me.
The actual angle of each wheel is obviously fixed. Let's assume they are perfectly straight (I.e. 0* of toe). Let's say I put all adjustable arms on the rear of your jeep and on one side I set the arms 1/4" longer than the other side. Put it on an alignment rack and it shows rear toe as one side being negative and the other positive. The arms need to be adjusted so that the toe relative to the vehicle is set back to 0.
If a person gets adjustable rear arms, the toe is the measure that needs to be adjusted so both sides are equal (I.e. Rear axle is perfectly perpendicular to the frame).
I'm pretty much a newb, so I'm sure you're right though. Hopefully, people listen to you and not me.
Sure, I made it up.
The actual angle of each wheel is obviously fixed. Let's assume they are perfectly straight (I.e. 0* of toe). Let's say I put all adjustable arms on the rear of your jeep and on one side I set the arms 1/4" longer than the other side. Put it on an alignment rack and it shows rear toe as one side being negative and the other positive. The arms need to be adjusted so that the toe relative to the vehicle is set back to 0.
If a person gets adjustable rear arms, the toe is the measure that needs to be adjusted so both sides are equal (I.e. Rear axle is perfectly perpendicular to the frame).
I'm pretty much a newb, so I'm sure you're right though. Hopefully, people listen to you and not me.
Actually I just learned something. I would not have put that term together with what you decribed here without your details. Thanks.
Sure, I made it up.
The actual angle of each wheel is obviously fixed. Let's assume they are perfectly straight (I.e. 0* of toe). Let's say I put all adjustable arms on the rear of your jeep and on one side I set the arms 1/4" longer than the other side. Put it on an alignment rack and it shows rear toe as one side being negative and the other positive. The arms need to be adjusted so that the toe relative to the vehicle is set back to 0.
If a person gets adjustable rear arms, the toe is the measure that needs to be adjusted so both sides are equal (I.e. Rear axle is perfectly perpendicular to the frame).
I'm pretty much a newb, so I'm sure you're right though. Hopefully, people listen to you and not me.
JKs run a negative toe in the front (tires point inward, not straight ahead). The tie rods job is to adjust that measurement and keep it where you set it.
In the case of the JK, rear total toe is not adjustable (as noted in my previous post). However, individual rear toe is (taking from one side and giving to the other). It is alignment terminology for getting a straight rear axle.
Incorrect. Tie rods adjust toe, control arms adjust caster. In the case of the JK, camber is not adjustable unless you use offset ball joints.
JKs run a negative toe in the front (tires point inward, not straight ahead). The tie rods job is to adjust that measurement and keep it where you set it.
In the case of the JK, rear total toe is not adjustable (as noted in my previous post). However, individual rear toe is (taking from one side and giving to the other). It is alignment terminology for getting a straight rear axle.
That was explained in post #23. Whether Toe is or is not the correct term doesn't matter. The OP has a full set of arms, so he (or the alignment shop) can ensure proper alignment of the rear axle in relation to the frame.
I'll try one more time to explain.
Assume the frame of the Jeep has a straight line running through it back to front. During an alignment there are 3 toe specs that are produced for front and rear: left toe, right toe, total toe. So, each value is relative to the straight line. Let's say right front is -.1 and left front is -.12, total is -.22. What it is also saying is that relative to the straight line, right front is pointed in .10 degrees and left is pointed in .12 degrees. The difference between the two doesn't matter in the front (assuming small values like in this example). When you drive straight, they are equal. When you adjust the tie rod, you adjust TOTAL toe.
Let's now say that the rear axle has a total toe of 0 degrees. That means that the wheels both point straight ahead (perfectly parallel to the imaginary line we drew). When you add adjustable rear arms, you have the ability to inadvertently push or pull one side more than the other. Let's say I accidentally set the upper and lower driver rear arms one turn longer. The result would be an axle that is no longer perpendicular to the imaginary line. How is that measured? Rear toe. It's like pinion angle vs. caster, it's a zero sum relationship, but an important one. If the toe of the driver rear is .10, then the passenger rear is -.10. The total toe can't be changed, but the individual toe can be.
You'd never visually be able to tell if the axle is pointing straight ahead. Toe is how you measure the angle of the rear tires going straight ahead. I can almost guarantee that most people never check it and is almost definitely off a little.
If this still doesn't make sense, look at an alignment sheet printout and stare at the rear toe readout until it makes sense.
Assume the frame of the Jeep has a straight line running through it back to front. During an alignment there are 3 toe specs that are produced for front and rear: left toe, right toe, total toe. So, each value is relative to the straight line. Let's say right front is -.1 and left front is -.12, total is -.22. What it is also saying is that relative to the straight line, right front is pointed in .10 degrees and left is pointed in .12 degrees. The difference between the two doesn't matter in the front (assuming small values like in this example). When you drive straight, they are equal. When you adjust the tie rod, you adjust TOTAL toe.
Let's now say that the rear axle has a total toe of 0 degrees. That means that the wheels both point straight ahead (perfectly parallel to the imaginary line we drew). When you add adjustable rear arms, you have the ability to inadvertently push or pull one side more than the other. Let's say I accidentally set the upper and lower driver rear arms one turn longer. The result would be an axle that is no longer perpendicular to the imaginary line. How is that measured? Rear toe. It's like pinion angle vs. caster, it's a zero sum relationship, but an important one. If the toe of the driver rear is .10, then the passenger rear is -.10. The total toe can't be changed, but the individual toe can be.
You'd never visually be able to tell if the axle is pointing straight ahead. Toe is how you measure the angle of the rear tires going straight ahead. I can almost guarantee that most people never check it and is almost definitely off a little.
If this still doesn't make sense, look at an alignment sheet printout and stare at the rear toe readout until it makes sense.



