Just level with me
01-05-2013, 09:53 AM
#1
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Just level with me
Is it really possible to get a JKU with around 4 inches of lift and 35" tires all "squared up" and driving straight with the steering wheel centered?? Given I have ARP (anal retentive personality), I am constantly asking myself this question. It seems that miniscule things that may not be perfecly in spec on a stock jeep become tremendously magnified by 3-4 inches of lift. This is my first jeep and suspension lift experience and boy have I learned a lot. I think my jeep drives fine, but it is not "squared up" and this drives me crazy. I have had numerous people look at it after the initial install (in which a local shop did BTW--I am not very mechanically inclined) and they cant seem to put their finger on it either. Everything seems to check out. I do know that with lift, axles become off center, caster and pinion angles change, and so on and so forth.... So does it really matter if adjustments need to made to make it drive straight even though it is not "square"? Does it really matter if one side sticks out a little further than the other if it is not noticeable?? Am I asking too much??? Look, I know a Jeep won't drive or ride like a Lexus by any means, but can someone please set me straight on this issue?
01-05-2013, 10:21 AM
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What lift do you have? If either of your axles are not centered, that can easily be fixed with use of an Adjustable Track Bar. If your steering wheel is not centered, you can easily do that by spinning the sleeve on your Drag Link after your pitman arm.
To correct your front Castor/ Pinion angles, you can get either Adjustable Control Arms, or Geometry Correcting Brackets. There's tons of guys that make adj control arms, and they range from $180 for a pair up to $300 a pair. Rough Country and AEV both make geometry correcting brackets for $89 and $99 respectively. I went with the cheaper ones, as they're identical for my 4" lift. Rough Country's eliminated a lot of the bump steer and flightyness i was having.
To correct your front Castor/ Pinion angles, you can get either Adjustable Control Arms, or Geometry Correcting Brackets. There's tons of guys that make adj control arms, and they range from $180 for a pair up to $300 a pair. Rough Country and AEV both make geometry correcting brackets for $89 and $99 respectively. I went with the cheaper ones, as they're identical for my 4" lift. Rough Country's eliminated a lot of the bump steer and flightyness i was having.
01-05-2013, 10:34 AM
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well I have the AEV 3.5" lift. i have adjustable LCA's and the geometry brackets on but the passenger side had to be extended about an inch and a half longer to get a right side pull out. It drives ok now but this drives me nuts because it is not "square". Do you think getting an adjustable track bar and centering the front axlle would allow for backing off that passenger side control arm to match it even with the drivers side?? See, thats what i was referring to in the OP. Does it really matter that much? if it is set up this way? If it's not that big of a deal, I guess I can live with it as long as the Jeep is driving straight!! Cant decide if I need to pursue this any further or leave it alone!!???!!
Last edited by JPB; 01-05-2013 at 10:43 AM.
01-05-2013, 10:37 AM
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well I have the AEV 3.5" lift. i have adjustable LCA's and the geometry brackets on but the passenger side had to be extended about an inch and a half longer to get a right side pull out. It drives ok now but this drives me nuts because it is not "square". would getting an adjustable track bar and centering the front axlle allow for backing off that passenger side control arm to match it even with the drivers side?? See, thats what i was referring to in the OP.
Adjustable Trackbar Write Up:
Why: Front tires are sticking out further on the driverside than the passenger after 3" lift. So the new track bar will center the axle. Next the driverside sits a bit higher than the passanger side. The new track bar will help even this out.
What is needed: You will need an adjustable track bar, 2 new 9/16" x 3 (or 3 1/2") grade 8 fine thread bolts, 4 washers, 2 lock washers and 2 nuts. I highly recommend a ProCal to center the steering wheel.
Tools: To remove the stock track bar 21mm socket and wrench, new track bar will need 13/16" socket and 7/8" wrench. For the steering wheel adjustment you will need a 15mm socket or wrench.
I want to share some tips so that you get your steering wheel straight and your wheels.
First, I used my Procal and made sure the Jeep wheels were perfectly straight (using the steering wheel feature on the Procal)
Next, I NEVER let the wheels leave the ground so they were always pointing in the same direction (perfectly straight forward.
Remove the existing track bar while the Jeep is loaded on the ground (it should come right off with no drag on the bolts).
Take the new track bar and attach it to the frame (driverside) I didn't tighten at this point.
Take the adjustable side and spin it out so that it is just a little bit longer than the hole in the axle (as you are looking at the holes they won't line up by 1/4" because the bar to too long).
I then used a block of wood and a floor jack and lifted dead center of my bumper just high enough until the holes lined up and installed the new 9/16" bolt.
Lower the Jeep and check the alignment of the axle. (I did this by placing a 4' straightedge against the top and bottom of the tire then measured the distance to the flare.
It took me 2 or three times of lifting the front end, pulling the bolt, turning the adjuster out a couple of turns then jacking up, install bolt and measure (remove jack).
Once everything was even I tightened both bolts (125 ft lbs) and the jam nut.
Okay, now that the track bar is installed the steering wheel is off (the bottom bar of the steering wheel is now between 8 and 9 o'clock.
Now you have to loosen the 2 nuts on the draglink and use a pipe wrench or Channel Lock to spin the adjuster.
Spin it a few turns and figure out which way it needs to turn.
I then hooked up the ProCal and with the Procal it will light the turn signal indicators inside and outside telling you which way the steering wheel needs to turn. When both ouside turn signals are lit or the high beam indicator is lit your steering wheel is centered ( you will be able to lay on the ground spin the adjustment and watch the turn signals).
Tighten the 2 nuts on the adjuster on the draglink and you are done.
Since I used the Procal to find straight ahead in the beginning and the tires never left the ground plus I never touched the steering wheel (like the instructions say) I should be very very close to where it was initially.
This is how I did it, you may want to do it differently.
Last edited by Mschneid; 01-05-2013 at 10:43 AM.
01-05-2013, 10:54 AM
#6
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Thanks so much guys. I guess extending the passenger side control arm out further than the driver side to get the "pull" out was just a band aid.. I will definitely invest in an adjustable trackbar.. I dont mind spending the money, I just want it to be set up right!!! Would you guys suggest the Teraflex HD monster adjustable trackbar? I think it's called????
haha Mschneid must have seen my other post on the "steering issue" thread
haha Mschneid must have seen my other post on the "steering issue" thread
Last edited by JPB; 01-05-2013 at 11:02 AM.
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01-05-2013, 12:07 PM
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To get the right side to "pull out" you need an adjustable track bar Not by adjusting the LCA.
Adjustable Trackbar Write Up:
Why: Front tires are sticking out further on the driverside than the passenger after 3" lift. So the new track bar will center the axle. Next the driverside sits a bit higher than the passanger side. The new track bar will help even this out.
What is needed: You will need an adjustable track bar, 2 new 9/16" x 3 (or 3 1/2") grade 8 fine thread bolts, 4 washers, 2 lock washers and 2 nuts. I highly recommend a ProCal to center the steering wheel.
Tools: To remove the stock track bar 21mm socket and wrench, new track bar will need 13/16" socket and 7/8" wrench. For the steering wheel adjustment you will need a 15mm socket or wrench.
I want to share some tips so that you get your steering wheel straight and your wheels.
First, I used my Procal and made sure the Jeep wheels were perfectly straight (using the steering wheel feature on the Procal)
Next, I NEVER let the wheels leave the ground so they were always pointing in the same direction (perfectly straight forward.
Remove the existing track bar while the Jeep is loaded on the ground (it should come right off with no drag on the bolts).
Take the new track bar and attach it to the frame (driverside) I didn't tighten at this point.
Take the adjustable side and spin it out so that it is just a little bit longer than the hole in the axle (as you are looking at the holes they won't line up by 1/4" because the bar to too long).
I then used a block of wood and a floor jack and lifted dead center of my bumper just high enough until the holes lined up and installed the new 9/16" bolt.
Lower the Jeep and check the alignment of the axle. (I did this by placing a 4' straightedge against the top and bottom of the tire then measured the distance to the flare.
It took me 2 or three times of lifting the front end, pulling the bolt, turning the adjuster out a couple of turns then jacking up, install bolt and measure (remove jack).
Once everything was even I tightened both bolts (125 ft lbs) and the jam nut.
Okay, now that the track bar is installed the steering wheel is off (the bottom bar of the steering wheel is now between 8 and 9 o'clock.
Now you have to loosen the 2 nuts on the draglink and use a pipe wrench or Channel Lock to spin the adjuster.
Spin it a few turns and figure out which way it needs to turn.
I then hooked up the ProCal and with the Procal it will light the turn signal indicators inside and outside telling you which way the steering wheel needs to turn. When both ouside turn signals are lit or the high beam indicator is lit your steering wheel is centered ( you will be able to lay on the ground spin the adjustment and watch the turn signals).
Tighten the 2 nuts on the adjuster on the draglink and you are done.
Since I used the Procal to find straight ahead in the beginning and the tires never left the ground plus I never touched the steering wheel (like the instructions say) I should be very very close to where it was initially.
This is how I did it, you may want to do it differently.
01-05-2013, 12:15 PM
#9
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Having the axles centered will do nothing to fix a pull. Your axles could stick out a foot and still go straight down the road. (An exaggeration, but you get the point)
I would set the LCAs to be equal length and check the toe. My money is on that.
I would set the LCAs to be equal length and check the toe. My money is on that.
01-05-2013, 12:18 PM
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o crap..... conflicting information.... now what?????????????
I do welcome and appreciate and take into mind all opinions and suggestions because I don't know much (still learning--first jeep and lift).... Please keep them coming...SO FAR.. i think i probably need an adjustable track bar. i think I need to have my control arms adjusted to the same length, and i need to check my toe in...Am i on the right track???
I do welcome and appreciate and take into mind all opinions and suggestions because I don't know much (still learning--first jeep and lift).... Please keep them coming...SO FAR.. i think i probably need an adjustable track bar. i think I need to have my control arms adjusted to the same length, and i need to check my toe in...Am i on the right track???
Last edited by JPB; 01-05-2013 at 12:26 PM.