Which lift for 37's?
#13
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Wiliamsburg, VA
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Since money is evidently no issue, if you have a two door, replace the rear currie coils with the trilink stretch rear long arm setup from rockkrawler. And bust out the body saw.
#14
JK Newbie
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My $1200 figure came from a set of shafts and a set of adjustable control arms.
#15
JK Super Freak
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You can get the JEReels 1310s from 4WD or 4WP @ 20% off right now. Should be about 750 or less shipped.
#16
JK Junkie
if your front driveshaft does not have a torn boot, you are not getting an adequate amount of droop or you are not disconnecting your sway bar links when wheeling. any JK with 3" of lift or more and has long enough shocks/components to allow for more flex WILL cause your front drive shaft boot to catch on the auto tranny and tear. this is not a maybe - this is a WILL.
#17
JK-Forum Founder
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I have a skid drop on my TJ. I also have had a 4" lift with fixed arms for years with no driveline issues. No SYE, either. I've never needed anything else for it. I probably have 30K miles on that setup with some hard wheeling thrown in for good measure. Maybe my TJ is just super special.
i should also point out that if you ever do upgrade to an SYE/CV setup like i would recommend, i think you will find that your TJ rides even better than it does now. why? because you most likely have slight vibes now that you have just gotten used to and an SYE/CV will get rid of them. how do i know? because i have a built up TJ and have been down this road before. but hey, if you're happy with what you've got now, more power to ya
My $1200 figure came from a set of shafts and a set of adjustable control arms.
on a final note, i'd like to point out that this thread was about getting a JK up on 37" tires. there is NO WAY you can get a TJ up on 37's without installing a 6" long arm kit. how do i know, i am running 37's on my TJ now.
Last edited by wayoflife; 12-12-2008 at 07:54 AM.
#18
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This has been an issue with the Superlift suspension that I have heard of. If you run their recommended shocks, then your droop is severely limited even with the sway bar disconected. Many other companies are running a shock that can extend further, but they limited the travel so they could use the "no new drivelines required" type of statement.
#19
Sponsoring Manufacturer
#20
you'll forgive me but, although you could get away with dropping your t-case on a tj and/or installing motor mounts, technically, you really should be installing an SYE and CV driveshaft with as little as 3" of lift on a TJ. this isn't cheap to do and it isn't easy to install an SYE. likewise, you only need to replace your rear driveshaft on a JK if you have a 2-door as the angle that it will be in after installing a 3" lift or more will be severe enough to leave your CV boot in a constant state of pinch. this will lead to it's premature failure and subsequently, the failuer of the joint itself. however, this doesn't happen over night and you still won't have vibes. as for up front, you only need to replace it after installing a 3" lift or more ONLY if you have an automatic. this is necessary as the spline shaft boot will catch your transmission when flexing and tear off. but, even at that, you can still drive with it in this condition for a long time. also, i think i should point out that a set of 1310 shafts can cost as little as $750-$800 and NOT $1200 and once again, if you have a 4-door, you only need to replace the front shaft. do you know how much it costs to buy an SYE, CV drive shaft and adjustable rear upper control arms on a TJ? because, that is what you really need on a TJ with 4" of lift.