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Which lift for 37's?

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Old 12-12-2008, 05:49 AM
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Do you have to replace the rear driveline too or just the front?
Old 12-12-2008, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by kntr
Do you have to replace the rear driveline too or just the front?
on a 4 door, you only need to replace the front. the rear should be fine.
Old 12-12-2008, 06:46 AM
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Since money is evidently no issue, if you have a two door, replace the rear currie coils with the trilink stretch rear long arm setup from rockkrawler. And bust out the body saw.
Originally Posted by Zak
Best would be if you have the money to go with the following

Teraflex Front and Rear adjustable control arms
Evo Coil Over Front
Currie Coils for Rear
JKS Front & Rear Track bars
Crown extended brake Lines

You will have the best setup and you will remember this
Old 12-12-2008, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
although you could get away with dropping your t-case on a tj and/or installing motor mounts, technically, you really should be installing an SYE and CV driveshaft with as little as 3" of lift on a TJ.
I have a skid drop on my TJ. I also have had a 4" lift with fixed arms for years with no driveline issues. No SYE, either. I've never needed anything else for it. I probably have 30K miles on that setup with some hard wheeling thrown in for good measure. Maybe my TJ is just super special.



Originally Posted by wayoflife
also, i think i should point out that a set of 1310 shafts can cost as little as $750-$800 and NOT $1200
My $1200 figure came from a set of shafts and a set of adjustable control arms.
Old 12-12-2008, 07:01 AM
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You can get the JEReels 1310s from 4WD or 4WP @ 20% off right now. Should be about 750 or less shipped.
Originally Posted by kntr
Ive got over 5000 miles on my stock drivelines, 4" lift, and 37s with an auto.

All of the 4" lifts are good but some just need more parts added to be great.

I checked into drivelines and they were over $1000. Where can I find a good set for $750-$800?
Old 12-12-2008, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
if your front driveshaft does not have a torn boot, you are not getting an adequate amount of droop or you are not disconnecting your sway bar links when wheeling. any JK with 3" of lift or more and has long enough shocks/components to allow for more flex WILL cause your front drive shaft boot to catch on the auto tranny and tear. this is not a maybe - this is a WILL.
This has been an issue with the Superlift suspension that I have heard of. If you run their recommended shocks, then your droop is severely limited even with the sway bar disconected. Many other companies are running a shock that can extend further, but they limited the travel so they could use the "no new drivelines required" type of statement.
Old 12-12-2008, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by RicoBlaster
I have a skid drop on my TJ. I also have had a 4" lift with fixed arms for years with no driveline issues. No SYE, either. I've never needed anything else for it. I probably have 30K miles on that setup with some hard wheeling thrown in for good measure. Maybe my TJ is just super special.
as i stated, you could get away with dropping your t-case on a tj and/or installing motor mounts however, i fail to see why you would consider this to be a good alternative to an SYE/CV setup. i mean, you just spent all that money to get the belly of your jeep up and away from nasty rocks and obstacles and then you puposfully LOWER it back down - as in CLOSER to the nasty rocks and obstacles below

i should also point out that if you ever do upgrade to an SYE/CV setup like i would recommend, i think you will find that your TJ rides even better than it does now. why? because you most likely have slight vibes now that you have just gotten used to and an SYE/CV will get rid of them. how do i know? because i have a built up TJ and have been down this road before. but hey, if you're happy with what you've got now, more power to ya

My $1200 figure came from a set of shafts and a set of adjustable control arms.
but you do not need to get a new rear shaft if you have a 4-door. likewise, you do not need to get a front shaft if you have a 6-speed. needless to say, on a 4-door with 4" of lift, you need to budget ZERO dollars extra for shafts and control arms. IF you have a 2-door, you will need a new shaft and upper arms only. and, i will reitterate, to lift a TJ 4" properly, it is my opinion that you really do need to install an SYE/CV and rear adjustable upper control arms as opposed to skirting by with an cheap budget solution that only helps to reduce vibes enough to make it tollerable.

on a final note, i'd like to point out that this thread was about getting a JK up on 37" tires. there is NO WAY you can get a TJ up on 37's without installing a 6" long arm kit. how do i know, i am running 37's on my TJ now.

Last edited by wayoflife; 12-12-2008 at 07:54 AM.
Old 12-12-2008, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Littlejon
This has been an issue with the Superlift suspension that I have heard of. If you run their recommended shocks, then your droop is severely limited even with the sway bar disconected. Many other companies are running a shock that can extend further, but they limited the travel so they could use the "no new drivelines required" type of statement.
which is utterly crazy to me because you are essentially paying for shocks that are about the same length and performance as stock.
Old 12-12-2008, 07:37 AM
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A TeraFlex long arm or short arm will work great with 37's. TeraFlex arms are fully built, greased and ready to go. If you have any questions on TeraFlex kits, call me.
Old 12-12-2008, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
you'll forgive me but, although you could get away with dropping your t-case on a tj and/or installing motor mounts, technically, you really should be installing an SYE and CV driveshaft with as little as 3" of lift on a TJ. this isn't cheap to do and it isn't easy to install an SYE. likewise, you only need to replace your rear driveshaft on a JK if you have a 2-door as the angle that it will be in after installing a 3" lift or more will be severe enough to leave your CV boot in a constant state of pinch. this will lead to it's premature failure and subsequently, the failuer of the joint itself. however, this doesn't happen over night and you still won't have vibes. as for up front, you only need to replace it after installing a 3" lift or more ONLY if you have an automatic. this is necessary as the spline shaft boot will catch your transmission when flexing and tear off. but, even at that, you can still drive with it in this condition for a long time. also, i think i should point out that a set of 1310 shafts can cost as little as $750-$800 and NOT $1200 and once again, if you have a 4-door, you only need to replace the front shaft. do you know how much it costs to buy an SYE, CV drive shaft and adjustable rear upper control arms on a TJ? because, that is what you really need on a TJ with 4" of lift.
Not to mention that 4" of lift on a TJ really only allows 33" tires (I have one set up that way) whereas 4" of lift oh a JK allows 37" tires. Hard to say that is a deficiency.


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