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List of changes for 35's

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Old May 17, 2012 | 05:04 AM
  #1  
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Was wondering if anyone could write me a comprehensive list of things that would need to be changed if I decided to upgrade from 33's to 35's. Speedo, regearing, C axle, etc? I am running a Teraflex 2" leveling kit and 1.25" spacers. Thanks.

Last edited by Hack12; May 17, 2012 at 05:06 AM.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 06:04 AM
  #2  
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You should have enough lift already for 35's, Axel C's are a great idea. What gearing do you have now? I can't speak from experience but from what I hear 3.73's are livable if you have the 3.6 but 4:10's would be something that you wouldn't need to regear. Procal for the speedo and you're good!
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Old May 17, 2012 | 06:22 AM
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Axle C's are good to do no matter what size you have, Procal or Superchips to get the speedo and a bit more power. Should be good on the lift, but may need a small spacers if bumpers and winch are added. As for gearing, 3.73 will need to be re-geared if you want to drive it a feel like it's actually moving. I have 4.10's with 35's in the same year model as yours and yes it is livable, but honestly it SUCKS. I'm having 5.13's put in as I type now to help out. My opinion, you don't need to do it right away, but plan to do it and add 5.13's to help. You may need a new front driveshaft if you have an auto and offroad frequently, but it's not a "have" to ( I ain't got one yet and I take mine offroad, Just been lucky so far).
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Old May 17, 2012 | 06:35 AM
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Since you live in RI and unless you're going up into north Connecticut / Vermont 3.73 are fine and 4.10 would be better. I live along the PA/ NJ border pretty hilly and have not noticed much of a difference going to 35's . I have 3.73 but will go to 4.10 down the road. Good luck
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Old May 17, 2012 | 07:44 AM
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with an auto trans, I thought the drive shaft was good to go unless you lift it like 3.5 or 4 inches when running 35's. Do you mean daily driver will have issues or are you referring to those that wheel hard?
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Old May 17, 2012 | 07:49 AM
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And don't forget to add a rear tire carrier, assuming you're getting a full-sized spare!
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Old May 17, 2012 | 07:58 AM
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For 35s c gussets and axle sleeves are a good idea also for the power get the superchips flashpaq worth the $300+ also regearing also is a good idea but i will say i run the superchips with stock 3.73s and not that bad but u defiantly feel the lag going up hills and steep faces
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Old May 17, 2012 | 08:32 AM
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I run 35's and just regeared to 5.13's and tuned it with a Flashpaq. Made a world of difference. I previously had 4.10's and it was just painful to drive. I highly recommend a regear.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 04:27 PM
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Default Going to 35's

It's actually a big step. I have 325/60/20's on a 3.5" lift. I did change out the drive shaft and upgraded the gears to 513. I went with 12" wide rims and got a much wider foot print, understand it comes with a cost. The tires are much more expensive compared to 305/55/20's. When doing this plan on a power lag. Down the road you may want to look into increasing the hp.

Last edited by Medanr; May 17, 2012 at 04:48 PM.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 08:01 PM
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I just finished doing this. Keep in mind I don't wheel it hard and I am a minimalist when it comes to mods. So here's what I did to run 35s on the street.
- lift is 1.75 from Daystar. Nothing fancy. I wanted to minimize stress on the drive shafts and keep the caster reasonable i.e. avoid having to install adjustable LCAs to correct steering
- regeared to 5.13s
- pro cal to calibrate the speedometer for the larger tires and correct for the gear swap
- trim the winglets off the outer ends of the front air dam to stop tire rub when turning the wheels fully to the left or right.
and that's it
If you run stock rims I would suggest 1.25 spacers to widen the stance and help with tire clearance for steering. I have no spacers because I am running aftermarket wheels with less backspace than stock.

Last edited by HillCountry_Cowboy; May 17, 2012 at 08:11 PM.
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