Locktite should it be used?
be careful the new red loctite. Its supposedly alot more permanent. The old red is not bad but the new is. I believe the new is 263 and the old is 262. Someone didnt believe this and before there race last weekend used the new red. He can not get the bolts of and may have to replace his yoke and cut the bolts off. He is going to try a breaker bar this weekend. From what our rep said it may be possible to remove the new red, but it will take around 300-400 degrees of heat...They made the point pretty clear to not use red unless its needed to not come off...
Last edited by Maertz; Apr 24, 2014 at 12:39 PM.
be careful the new red loctite. Its supposedly alot more permanent. The old red is not bad but the new is. I believe the new is 263 and the old is 262. Someone didnt believe this and before there race last weekend used the new red. He can not get the bolts of and may have to replace his yoke and cut the bolts off. He is going to try a breaker bar this weekend. From what our rep said it may be possible to remove the new red, but it will take around 300-400 degrees of heat...They made the point pretty clear to not use red unless its needed to not come off...
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Torquing hardware serves two purposes: It tightens it so it won't come loose, and it ensure you don't tighten so much that you cause damage. Therefore my policy has always been to use it where the factory uses it. Which is to say, based on the factory service manual, almost nowhere. In fact, I've never seen LocTite mentioned in the FSM. However, you will find the occasional bolt in the parts breakdown that has the equivalent gel as part of the bolt. So, substitute LocTite if you are replacing that hardware with other than OEM stuff. If you are installing something that previously wasn't adjustable, such as a jam nut on a control arm, follow the instructions that came with the new hardware. In my experience installing probably several dozen lifts of a wide variety of brands, I don't recall any ever saying to use LocTite.






