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Locktite should it be used?

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Old Apr 27, 2014 | 04:16 PM
  #11  
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That pretty much answered my question too. I'd been thinking of this for a while.
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Old Apr 27, 2014 | 05:21 PM
  #12  
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There are a vast number of varying grades of locktite. The reds do recommend heat for removal. Blue is for removal with hand tools. Green is for engine blocks and pretty stout. Blacks are for high vibration applications and are stronger than the reds. Also be careful with any locktite in and around plastic, like the fox shock mounts. Typically delrin isn't affected buy locktite, but many plastics are.

Last edited by Jeepstin12; Apr 27, 2014 at 08:12 PM.
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Old Apr 27, 2014 | 06:44 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Jeepstin12
There are a vast number f varying grades of locktite. The reds do recommend heat for removal. Blue is for removal with hand tools. Green is for engine blocks and pretty stout. Blacks are for high vibration applications and are stronger than the reds. Also be careful with any locktite in mad around plastic, like the fox shock mounts. Typically derringer isn't affected buy locktite, but many plastics are.

This is exactly rite. Factory specs?lifts, tires, and weight we added things loosen up quick. If u use it in the correct manner they can benefit a keeper real quick.

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Old Apr 27, 2014 | 08:16 PM
  #14  
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I used locktite on all my lift components then indexed each bolt and nut. Not one loose as of yet (2 years now). I also locktite my lugs. All with blue, 243. I used red on my seat mount bolts for my tuffy box. A thief will need some grunt to get them puppies loose. Also used red on my spare tire mount to the body. Typically use red where you don't plan on breaking it loose often. If you apply it where heat can damage, no worries, heat the tool, the bolt will act as a heat sink and you can still break loose any red locktite nut or bolt.
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Old Apr 28, 2014 | 02:29 AM
  #15  
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I'll have to find the product later and post it but I'm on my phone atm. Anyways they make a type of thread locker I don't recall who but it's made to not lock up 100% and remain tacky specifically for bolts that will be adjusted but still relock I think up to 6 times. With typical thread lockers if they rdy then you torque on the bolt some more you ruin the bond. For suspension I would opt for thread locker you can made adjustments to. We use it in folder knife making so we can adjust pivot tension without ruining the bond


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Old Apr 28, 2014 | 05:15 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by suprablaski
I'll have to find the product later and post it but I'm on my phone atm. Anyways they make a type of thread locker I don't recall who but it's made to not lock up 100% and remain tacky specifically for bolts that will be adjusted but still relock I think up to 6 times. With typical thread lockers if they rdy then you torque on the bolt some more you ruin the bond. For suspension I would opt for thread locker you can made adjustments to. We use it in folder knife making so we can adjust pivot tension without ruining the bond


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Probably the vibratite vc-3. We sell alot of that for that reason.
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Old Apr 28, 2014 | 07:49 AM
  #17  
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In recent years I've switched to using Anti-seize. Living in Atlantic Canada I find the bigger issue I have is never being able to get parts off. I don't put it on items like my control arms but certainly have it on my shocks, wheel hub nut, and any body bolts that pivot or move.

I was always cutting off bolts before I did this now a hit of heat and off they come.

I realized this weekend my supply of grade 8 bolts hasn't needed to be replenished in over 3 years. I was before ordering bolts on a monthly bases it felt like.

I certainly put lock-tite on things like driveshafts but that is pretty much it.
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Old Apr 28, 2014 | 09:00 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
Depends on the bolts. I would not use Loctite on control arm or track bar hardware. Brake calipers: yes (blue) driveshafts: yes (blue) Wheel adapters: yes (red)
^^^this.

Also, Anti-seize and locktite are two completely different kinds of products.
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