Invest2m4

Haha, exactly. However works for you, so long as it's safe. I remove two arms at a time (driveshaft connected). Life is far easier with someone helping as it takes some motivation to rotate the axle. Obviously, put coils in after arms. I do track bars after the whole thing is done and I've torqued all the arms.

14Sport

Well I just got back from the muffler shop. He hadn't seen any 3.6s yet and the first thing he says is WTF is this...lol...looking at the exhaust loop. So we found the best places to cut (all three on the y pipe) and he said it would be about a $100. However, he warned me very sternly that if he cuts the pipe then Jeep WILL void my warranty. I told him about the afe pipe and he said since it was bolt on they may approve it, but it would have to be pre-approved by Chrysler. I told him I wasn't too worried since jeep would have to prove the exhaust mod caused the failure of the warranted part in the event of a failure. He was very busy and told me to call next week for an appointment.

dalearyous

are you referring to this? Rancho RS720003 - Rancho Exhaust Pipe Kit for 12-14 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK with 2-5" Lift - Quadratec

if so crap, i might need to send it back.

[QUOTE=Invest2m4;3925153]

snags922

I thought I was missing something. I am going to be doing this by myself for the first 4 hours tomorrow so I want to do it the safest way possible. I agree that all 4 wheels on the ground is definitely the safest. I just wish someone would elaborate on how you bolt up the longer CAs with all 4 wheels on the ground. What is the trick that I am missing?

Sorry for all the dumb questions today, I am a computer guy by trade...I am not a mechanic! And I need to get everything straight by tomorrow. I really do appreciate everyone's help.

How did people take on projects like this before there were forums...!

14Sport

I didn't do it that way. However, I did have to adjust some arms after install and I used a wheel chock in front of the tire and then drove into it a few times to align the ca for the bolt. It actually works. You can also do it with 3 wheels on the ground. Take a look at six minutes into this video. You can see he uses a floor jack under the pumpkin to manipulate the axle to align the holes. That's how I did it. But I had to use a ratchet strap to align the track bar.

Project: MF JK Part 1 | Xtreme 4x4 | PowerBlockTV - Full Episodes

Bypass

It works fine. They aren't that much longer so it won't affect anything.


The joints are pre greased.

Bypass

The easiest way to make the front coils slip in is to, remove both sway links, remove the shock, do your extended brake line, remove at least one end of the track bar, remove at least one end of the front lower control at on that side.

This way the axle will droop further than it normally could and you can slip the coil in.


Be sure to drill your hole and test which bumpstop height you want before installing the coil. Install the coil with no bump extension, then slide the pucks through the gaps in the coils and bolt it all together with the axle drooped so you have lots of room to ratchet.

snags922

FYI - I just talked to MC because I wanted to hear it from them on greasing the joint. He said they really need to take that section that talks about greasing the duroflex joint and assembling the joint out of their instruction. All duroflex joint do come pre-greased.

BrigadierJK

Anyone have experience with running the Metal Cloak Tie Rod?? I just installed it recently and it gave me a few concerns especially when talking with the Metal Cloak Advisor. I'm running it with the Reid Racing Knuckles and I could barely get the nut on top to tighten it down so it doesn't seem like its on their good. When I called Metal Cloak, the guy seemed to know his stuff but told me that, thats the way its supposed to be and that the Knuckles do NOT need to be Reamed. Apparently Reid Racing and Metal Cloak have collaborated on it. Anyone not ream their Knuckles and how is it working out for you? Also the metal threads are hardened steel which doesn't allow the steel to get crushed whatsoever when its tightened down which leads me to believe that my Tie Rod could wiggle itself out over time. Anyone have an experience with this or hows it working out for you?

jnabird333

This is true but with 4k miles on my arms they squeak like crazy when hitting speed humps so I will be regreasing mine soon.