37s and PSC flares will require at least 2", probably 3" of bump stop, (depending on tire's actual size), possibly even more if you do any Steering correction rendering front up-travel capability in the 6-pack shocks unusable.

edit to fix spelling (I'm an idiot)

 

Right. If I went with the GC I would get the Overline fenders.

 

this is Matsons respsonse to my argument awhile back.

Maertz,

Some great points.

Since we are not members of JKForum where you also posted this information I will try to provide some answers to your feedback.

The concept of the 6Pak is simple.

When we built our Overline Fenders for the with 2.5" more clearance then any other fenders on the market, we quickly discovered that, because of the limitations of typical JK shocks, you could not take advantage of all the extra clearance provided by the fenders. The shock was your limiting factor.

The 6Pak was developed to remove the shock from ever again being the limiting factor.

On our 3.5" lift, we run 14's in the front 12's in the rear. We combine those with coils that have a free length of 21 7/8" in the front and 19.5" in the rear. Because of the true Dual Rate quality, they sit true at a 3.5" lift on a fully weighted Jeep.

In testing full wheel travel of the front axles (straight up to full compression and and straight down to full extension) we get 13.5", no other shock that bolts into a stock location can get that much true wheel travel on a 3.5" lift.

With the addition of the Duroflex joints, which provides non-binding, self centering misalignment, the 3.5" Game Changer suspension has more articulation then a typical 6.5" Long Arm (as shown by RTI and CTI testing).

You are correct, that on a typical set up with, say 37's, and Overline Fenders, and 2" of bump stop, the 6Paks do not fully compress to the full 14". It is nice to know there is a little extra there. The coils will fully compress first.

Again, removing the shock from being the limiting factor.

It's also good to keep in mind that the JK front upper 6Pak shock mount is about 2" lower then the stock mount. This means that to match the 28" eye to eye full droop of the front shock, you would need to have 30" of droop for a typical shock.

Thanks again. Hope this helps and, again, my apologies to the OP. I owe you a beer.


The coils will limit the up travel and if you dont have there fenders your bumpstops may also depending on your tire size. Also as far as i can tell the shock is only lowered about 1" not 2". Dont get me wrong its a good kit, and you can argue shock lengths with any other kit out there as it varies so much on lift,tires,fenders,bumpstops and such.

You will have better travel than you had before id bet and that you will notice offroad.

 

so, the sway bar should still be level with the ground right? I don't see the end links shortening much more than this.

 

Level or slightly up (5-10 degrees) to allow for full droop without hyper-flexing (reversing) the anti-sway bar on a rubi.... Yours doesn't look too far off.

 

If you don't do this when you drop one side the sway bar rotates down and then forward. When the axle comes back up your link gets bent into a "C" shape around the axle. Personal experience.

 

awesome. thanks guys.

 

If you have a 2.5" lift, put the stock rear links on the front and they will be the right size. The sway bar should be parallel to the ground.

 

is that what you did with yours?

Will at MC said it's supposed to be as pictured for the reasons that mattgt5 gave above.

 

It's supposed to be about 5 degrees above parallel. I bent both my links on one trip in my last jkur by moving the rears to the front.