From the ones I've seen, it would be cheaper just to purchase a 8,500 lbs Superwinch ($399) and a receiver adapter for it.

And that isn't too much more than all of this:

 

That looks like a trip to the emergency room if ever I saw one.

 

I also recently spent a pile of time digging my jeep out,my front mount winch was of no help,can see what your thinking but will get to complicated,my solution is gonna be to relocate my exhaust to frame rail area similar to kit Woods is offering,and mount rear winch in old exhaust location,do have a spare warn M8000 that needs some repair,gonna see if can rebuild and modify into "short drum" style,unless you go to great lengths to create a "channel"to run under jeep(the rest of us are trying to find ways to increase clearance,not take away,all I can see happening is damage to jeep and or broken cable,either mount a second winch or take the very good advice offered about the hand winch,I always carried a 2 ton chain hoist style come along in my bronco's that was used to pull from the rear,also used to pull from the side to keep vehicle from rolling on a nasty front winch pull across a side hill once,now having said that maybe I might buy another "hand winch"as might be more usefull than rear elec winch(or some "rube goldberg"contraption and pulley system under jeep

 

We did the same in the Sahara in the dunes around Chinguetti. The sand keeps getting softer and softer, and if you pick the wrong path, there is no way out going forwards and the only way out is backwards. We tunneled under the truck, and just sent the cable under the axles to the back of the truck and hooked it up to a Pull Pal. It wasn't pretty but it worked. Did some damage to the axles, bent the crap out of the fair lead, and we had to replace the winch cable afterwards. It was just about the slowest winching experience in my life, and I would never want to have to do it again. But, we made it home. On that note, I wouldn't recommend it, but in 110 degrees in the shade, even though there is no shade, with limited fuel, water, and food, and well over a day's drive from anything resembling civilization, getting out without dehydrating by using shovels, highlifts, and bridges, it seemed like a good option and minor damage was okay. By the way, this was on a Land Cruiser with solid axles, and the diffs are both offset to the same side, and it was a straight pull, two of the points made by Renegade JK. I wish I had pics, but I was more concerned about getting back then documenting.

 

Most serious guys that go out by themselves carry a HiLift. The HiLift Off Road kit is only 50-60 bucks and makes winching with the HiLift much easier (notice I didn't say easy). And then a 20 ft length of 3/8" Grade 70 Transport chain to travel along as you winch. You can go up to 20 ft without rerigging. And all except the HiLift Off Road kit is dual purpose stuff that you need anyway. So really there is only one additon, at minimal cost, that you need to add to you equipment list and you greatly increase your capability. For those not familiar with the HL Off Road kit it lets you pull the length of the HL, hold tension, move the jack along the HL and take another bit and pull the length of the HL again. All while maintaining the progress you've already made.

It is not often that you have to get winched backwards and the above will do it when needed. There are a few caveats though. It's quicker to winch with a 60" Hi Lift than 48" or shorter so go that way if you can mount it. The Transport chain is versatile to have, 20 ft is a great length, but only use it in a static situation and never load it ballistically. Only get Grade 70 Transport. Grade 70 is DOT rated and is what truckers use to tie down loads and equipment. Grade 80 is rated slightly higher but is more brittle, doesn't handle shock loads well and is designed for exclusivly for overhead lifting. Less than Grade 70 you are asking for trouble. Buy American made chains and grab hooks and not Chinese. I've seen the Chinese fail in industrial settings below their load rating.

And finally if you do go this direction do a practice rig up in your yard and try it out before you have to do it at zero degrees or as night is approaching. It does work and is even somewhat elegant when rigged up properly and done well. Without the added weight of a second winch, or half dozen shackles and snatch block, or some concoction jerry rigged under the Jeep you have added significantly to your capabilities.

 

Don't forget a good length of winch line extension.

 

Got that covered and a couple of tree savers to boot. And Bill taught me the trick to shortening a rope winch line extention.

 

Here's a thought from an old fart ... assuming that you have a hitch or rear recovery point. This is the under $50 option and adds very little weight. This is my answer and has been used for my recovery many, many times. My front mounted electric winch has never been used to pull me back out ... only forward - where possible. What has been used more times than I can count is an inexpensive come-along / manual winch (sometimes with a snatch block to increase the mechanical advantage) available in any hardware store for under $50. I always carry some old climbing rope (gold line works best around here in Montana) doubled up to 9,000 lb capacity to assist when there is not quite enough metal cable on either winch ... that makes the situation more environmentally friendly.

No mods to the 4x4 are needed and it adds less than 20 pounds all up ... $.02

 

This thread and responses crack me up.
Use the tools that you should already be carrying with you.
HILIFT Jack

video #2

 

Does anyone have a winch mounted to a plate that goes into the hitch, then have front and rear hitch receivers? I was thinking of doing this, keeping the winch portable for use on either the front or rear. Any pros or cons other than lugging the winch out when you need it?