Monstaliner Project
Starting tomorrow morning i am going to begin my monstaliner project. I would like to have the Jeep usable again on Monday so I can drive it into work (at least). Any tips or suggestions before I get into this? I read the instructions on their website Monstaliner do-it-yourself roll-on truck bed liner. I have heard that you need to use Acetone to clean up the dirt and dust before you actually lay on the product. It says to use a MEK solvent, but again the instructions are for a trunk. Any help will be great.
Last edited by Robar; Sep 14, 2012 at 09:31 PM. Reason: Please do not post clickable non-sponsor links
Good call on the monstaliner. I hear alot of good reviews about it. I sprayed mine with raptor and did a post you might want to check out.
LINK-> https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...hreads-238739/
In there I hoist the back of my center console up that you might be able to use. You can take it all out if your willing to take the shifter knobs off.
Just wiping with acetone isn't going to give you the best stick to your liner. Your going to want to sand the clear coat off everything your going to paint. That takes damb near a day to pull off. I would use a sand paper that 120 or close to that. If you can find a red scotch brite pad at the hardware store that's a great option to use for sanding. You don't want to go down to the bare metal. The factory primer as good as your going to get. If you do hit metal, spray one layer of self etch primer on there for the paint to stick. It's best to keep self-etching primer mostly off existing paint because of the etcher part.
If all the paint is dull looking then your almost ready to paint. Take a shop vac and quickly get out as much dust as possible. Then with gloves on, to prevent hand oils, rub-a-dub-dub the tub with some acetone. MEK (if you can find it) or rubbing alcohol would also work. Mineral spirits would work in a pinch but it leaves just a touch of residue behind.
Monstaliner's texture is dependant on how you lay down your 2nd layer of paint. Check out this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-CB7sFDxAA Your going to love having a lined Jeep.
Good Luck
LINK-> https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...hreads-238739/
In there I hoist the back of my center console up that you might be able to use. You can take it all out if your willing to take the shifter knobs off.
Just wiping with acetone isn't going to give you the best stick to your liner. Your going to want to sand the clear coat off everything your going to paint. That takes damb near a day to pull off. I would use a sand paper that 120 or close to that. If you can find a red scotch brite pad at the hardware store that's a great option to use for sanding. You don't want to go down to the bare metal. The factory primer as good as your going to get. If you do hit metal, spray one layer of self etch primer on there for the paint to stick. It's best to keep self-etching primer mostly off existing paint because of the etcher part.
If all the paint is dull looking then your almost ready to paint. Take a shop vac and quickly get out as much dust as possible. Then with gloves on, to prevent hand oils, rub-a-dub-dub the tub with some acetone. MEK (if you can find it) or rubbing alcohol would also work. Mineral spirits would work in a pinch but it leaves just a touch of residue behind.
Monstaliner's texture is dependant on how you lay down your 2nd layer of paint. Check out this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-CB7sFDxAA Your going to love having a lined Jeep.
Good Luck
I monstalined the inside and outside of my hard top. Each side took about a day to clean/scuff/tape and apply. If you're doing the tub I would highly suggest spraying. The exterior of my hard top was easy, but the inside was a pain. The roller couldn't do nooks and crannies so I was stuck jabbing at it with a paintbrush for the majority of the time. It's extremely tiresome.
I used tack cloth to pick up the dust my shop vac couldn't. I also used a MEK substitute before and after scuffing.
Either way, you'll want a good respirator. Otherwise you'll get a WICKED headache.
I finished the day before I deployed (surprise notification) so it's been sitting in my garage since May. I can't vouch for fading or wear yet but it looks pretty darn sharp.
I used tack cloth to pick up the dust my shop vac couldn't. I also used a MEK substitute before and after scuffing.
Either way, you'll want a good respirator. Otherwise you'll get a WICKED headache.
I finished the day before I deployed (surprise notification) so it's been sitting in my garage since May. I can't vouch for fading or wear yet but it looks pretty darn sharp.
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I did my tub about 2 years ago now and I would do again in a heartbeat...product has held up great! Here are a couple things I learned doing the install.
- First remove the sound deadening material on the floorboards & rear area. I actually had rust starting under mine...it is porous afterall. Some people freeze it but I heated it with a gun and scrapped it with a "good ole" putty knife.
- Scuff the entire surface to be coated and wipe off with MEK...several times...can never be too clean. Prep is everything here.
- Mask off everything you DON'T want coated. Ear plugs or golf tees work to plug some holes. Tape off others.
- I realized that I should have bought more of the smaller rollers that come in the kit...makes it easier to work in tight spots.
- Lastly, I used the green tape to mask off...really pulls clean edges. Oh pull the tape BEFORE it cures totally.
Good luck and don't forget to wear gloves!
- First remove the sound deadening material on the floorboards & rear area. I actually had rust starting under mine...it is porous afterall. Some people freeze it but I heated it with a gun and scrapped it with a "good ole" putty knife.
- Scuff the entire surface to be coated and wipe off with MEK...several times...can never be too clean. Prep is everything here.
- Mask off everything you DON'T want coated. Ear plugs or golf tees work to plug some holes. Tape off others.
- I realized that I should have bought more of the smaller rollers that come in the kit...makes it easier to work in tight spots.
- Lastly, I used the green tape to mask off...really pulls clean edges. Oh pull the tape BEFORE it cures totally.
Good luck and don't forget to wear gloves!
If you're going to use the roller wear coveralls or longsleeves/pants that you don't care about. It sprays all over the place even without thinning it out. And you definitely want to wear gloves, MEK or a substitute is the only way to get it off your skin but it's really harsh.
Rubiburst: how long did it take you to do your tub with the roller? Did you do two coats?
Rubiburst: how long did it take you to do your tub with the roller? Did you do two coats?



