Mopar 2 inch lift kit
06-05-2011, 09:27 AM
#11
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Had the 2". Came with Jeep when I bought it new. I ran 35s with it and ran many trails in Moab except for the most hardcore. It did it's job and bilsteins 5100s give it a great ride. It is overpriced. Never had any issue with it, but rubbed some on back tire fender. It is a very complete set, except you retain the stock control arms.
I needed more clearance and articulation after Moab without changing my COG much, so I now run the Full Traction 3" Ultimate short arm. I got 3.5" out of it.
It has done everything I've pushed it through flawlessly.
Lost of good choices out there. Make sure you know what kind of trails you plan on running and tire size you want. After that, realize that if you go 4" or more and 37s, you need to consider driveline changes as well.
Good luck
I needed more clearance and articulation after Moab without changing my COG much, so I now run the Full Traction 3" Ultimate short arm. I got 3.5" out of it.
It has done everything I've pushed it through flawlessly.
Lost of good choices out there. Make sure you know what kind of trails you plan on running and tire size you want. After that, realize that if you go 4" or more and 37s, you need to consider driveline changes as well.
Good luck
06-05-2011, 11:23 AM
#12
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Call me crazy...
...but I had the dealer install the Mopar lift for a total of almost $2500 (1500 for lift, rest for labor). I wanted peace of mind that it would be installed correctly as they do so many. I almost went with Les Schwab but it wasn't that much cheaper. All in all I like it, but the ride is quite a bit stiffer, and it sits up an inch or so higher in the front than in the back (the lifted one on the showroom floor did, too, so I think it might be just the way the lift is set up, maybe to handle a heavy winch which I don't have yet). I wanted to get rid of the rake, but got more than I wanted!
I am not altogether excited with my Mopar stuff due to the high price and not especially great features (e.g. my rock sliders and front bumper or just OK), but I did want to keep the "factory" feel for the Jeep.
I am not altogether excited with my Mopar stuff due to the high price and not especially great features (e.g. my rock sliders and front bumper or just OK), but I did want to keep the "factory" feel for the Jeep.
06-05-2011, 02:24 PM
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06-05-2011, 02:28 PM
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...but I had the dealer install the Mopar lift for a total of almost $2500 (1500 for lift, rest for labor). I wanted peace of mind that it would be installed correctly as they do so many. I almost went with Les Schwab but it wasn't that much cheaper. All in all I like it, but the ride is quite a bit stiffer, and it sits up an inch or so higher in the front than in the back (the lifted one on the showroom floor did, too, so I think it might be just the way the lift is set up, maybe to handle a heavy winch which I don't have yet). I wanted to get rid of the rake, but got more than I wanted!
I am not altogether excited with my Mopar stuff due to the high price and not especially great features (e.g. my rock sliders and front bumper or just OK), but I did want to keep the "factory" feel for the Jeep.
I am not altogether excited with my Mopar stuff due to the high price and not especially great features (e.g. my rock sliders and front bumper or just OK), but I did want to keep the "factory" feel for the Jeep.
06-05-2011, 02:38 PM
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06-05-2011, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
a lift will not help you not get stuck in the snow or with the medium-difficulty trails.
Looks are subjective. Too much lift with small tires can look silly.
I would recommend you figure what size tires you want to run and go from there. The best lifts are the ones that give you the smallest amount of clearance without the tires rubbing. Once you know what tire you are going to run we can help but until then you will just get a bunch of people recommending what lifts they are running and showing you photos of their rigs.
find out what is involved in a lift, it is more than just coils and shocks. It is a very complex system of geometry that doesn't like to be messed with.
06-05-2011, 05:46 PM
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a lift will not help you not get stuck in the snow or with the medium-difficulty trails.
Looks are subjective. Too much lift with small tires can look silly.
I would recommend you figure what size tires you want to run and go from there. The best lifts are the ones that give you the smallest amount of clearance without the tires rubbing. Once you know what tire you are going to run we can help but until then you will just get a bunch of people recommending what lifts they are running and showing you photos of their rigs.
find out what is involved in a lift, it is more than just coils and shocks. It is a very complex system of geometry that doesn't like to be messed with.
Looks are subjective. Too much lift with small tires can look silly.
I would recommend you figure what size tires you want to run and go from there. The best lifts are the ones that give you the smallest amount of clearance without the tires rubbing. Once you know what tire you are going to run we can help but until then you will just get a bunch of people recommending what lifts they are running and showing you photos of their rigs.
find out what is involved in a lift, it is more than just coils and shocks. It is a very complex system of geometry that doesn't like to be messed with.
In my newbie eyes, anything should be better than bone stock. Better for looks, better to crawl out of holes or snow drifts, better to go mess around in a local rock pit with, etc.
Since my post, I've been reading up on several other threads and taken some advice and I think I'll start off with non-lifted 33 inchers. That way I don't mess with my suspension, I won't void my warranty, and it'll be a line in the sand I can start from. The 33" tires will take an eventual 2 inch lift kit pretty well - might go Mopar
, AEV, a local special or eBay kits, and if I get heavy into off-roading, then go the entire way with 37's, 4 inch lifters, re-gearing, winches, the works.But for now I have to think of my car as a daily driver and occasional family mobile (still trying to relegate that role to the wife's Commander
). And it's hard to imagine going without the 10 year, 100,000 mile powertrain warranty for something I might not use!
06-05-2011, 06:19 PM
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For a week I ran 35" on my two door with flat's. It was fine although when fully articulated or loaded down in the rear I did get some rub.
Now I am running Rubi tires till I can budget a lift.
I think If you are wanting to test the waters going with flat fenders such as the Bushwhackers (love mine!) plus 32-33" tires is a good way to start. This will allow you to get some good off roading in without busting the bank and allow you to learn what you are wanting out of your Jeep.
Now I am running Rubi tires till I can budget a lift.
I think If you are wanting to test the waters going with flat fenders such as the Bushwhackers (love mine!) plus 32-33" tires is a good way to start. This will allow you to get some good off roading in without busting the bank and allow you to learn what you are wanting out of your Jeep.
06-05-2011, 07:16 PM
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06-05-2011, 07:19 PM
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Follow-up question - if I went with 33's, I heard my speedo and MPG meter will no longer be calibrated to the new tire size. Is that true? What do I need to do to get it in-sync again?
And what else should I look out for with the change to taller tires?
And what else should I look out for with the change to taller tires?