JulietKilo

I already have the brackets from a terraflex lift, it drops them a good amount but I may have to fine tune them to allow max flex without damage.

EDIT: I updated the first thread. The doetsch shocks are not available for the JK so I am getting Full traction shocks instead. Dave at Northridge4x4 told me I would be the first JK to get them from him!!!

wrnglrguy

Based on my 3" lift, your brakelines will be okay unless you disconnect the front. When I disconnet my front with the 3" lift, my brakelines, with the relocation brackets installed, are maxed out. With a 4" lift, I would not take the chance on the brakelines. I would add longer front lines. However, you should be fine if you leave the front swaybar connected until you replace the front brakelines.

JulietKilo

Now that is the feed back I am looking for. I will get some new brake lines! The whole point of going this big was to flex the crap out of the front end!

wrnglrguy

Also, I am going to being swapping springs soon to 4" rear and 4.5" front (want more room under fender for flexing). Again, based on what I have now, the relocation brackets for the brakelines in the rear I have now, look to have PLENTY of room for flexing, even when I add an inch taller spring. So, I think the rear will be fine with just relocation brackets. Of course, after you install your lift, take the Jeep somewhere and flex it so you can check just to be sure.

aldaman

Great way to get the most bang out of your buck...Do you have an auto or manual trans? What will you do to address the angle of the front DS after you install your lift....Thanks...

JulietKilo

Another good point, I have a manual... so no problems with the drive shaft hitting the skidplate like the autos do. Since I am in an unlimited I should be good for now with angles.

chuck45

Man, I wholeheartedly agree wit this. The factory caster is 4.2. When I installed my RE 3.5 SF lift, which has fixed lower arms that are 1/4" longer than stock, and adjusted the upper adjustables to the RE suggested length I ended up right back at 4.2 caster. But with the lift the JK felt very skittish. My wife said it felt "darty" and like it "wasn't connected to the road real well". Adjusting the caster to 6 degrees (and taking the toe in from 1/16 to 1/8 in) gave it a very solid feel; with maybe even a better on center feeling than stock.

I'll bet your caster with fixed factory arms is going to be around 2 degrees and that won't be good at all. You also won't be able to adjust your rear pinion angle. And your wheelbase will be 1/2 to 3/4 inches shorter. I don't know what the cheapest way to get adjustable arms is. Maybe adding adj lower arms and keeping the factory uppers would restore your wellbase and let you adjust caster. I do know the best way is to get a set of arms with at least the uppers or lowers adjustable (all from the same company - no mix and match here).

JulietKilo

Well CRAP, I hope I did not bite off more then I can chew.

Brake lines, lower control arms, man this is getting $$$$

I just dropped 2300 dollars on wheels and tires
600 on my lift thus far
and about 80 bucks on Woods 4XFix products for steering and evap canister relocation.

This never gets old however! This is my second Jeep and the last time I started a project I was 5K in the hole in just the first few months. The difference this time is I will never get rid of this Jeep!

rescuejeep

u say that now

RubiconOrdie

I'll scond (or third) the control arms. You can get by with just the front lowers and then rear uppers to fix your rear angle. Or keep the money on hand and drive it after you install your lift. If you don't mind how it handles then you can wait, if you feel it's too "darty" then order and install them. I for one didn't like how mine handled so I installed adjustable control arms fast. I have a 2 Door, though.