I want to thank TheDirtMan for an an exceptional education. I'm in a midlife crisis going from building sport European hatch backs for 15 years to now shifting to going off road. I am not planning on doing any mudding or rock crawling just doing some overland stuff where I can go in peace and shoot my guns in the middle of the desert beyond anti- gun freedom hating individuals and prying eyes.

So far, from what I gathered, PLEASE CORRECT ME if I'm wrong when I get my JKU this winter I want as follows;
1. I like the AEV lift kit 2.5". It looks the most complete in what is needed to correct geometry to keep drivability issues on pavement down. It says you can run 35's but that leads to my second question/ concern.
2. I read on here the anything bigger than 35's will kill a Danna 30 and that beefing up a Danna 30 is useless and not worth the money. Therefor I was thinking 34's or even 33's to be on the safe side.
3. Gearing; I should go with 4:10's with 35, 35, 33's minimum and that is the largest you can fit in a a 30 anyway, right?
4. Will need an engine remap when completed, right?
5. Is it worth it to even put a locker in the 30?
6 I was thinking of swapping out to Bushwacker wide fenders.... how are those as far clearance? The flats are growing on me however.

Thanks for the help.

Rick,
Overlanding on 35's with the dana 30 should not be an issue. If that is the max size you are going to run you may want to gusset the C's but that is up to you. As far as things like sleeves and trusses I would just save up or build a better axle. I would not hesitate adding a aussie locker but as far as a selectable locker like an ARB or E locker I would look for a rubi axle or build one. Gearing is going to depend on your engine and transmission. You are talking about overland so I would be thinking weight handling and if you are going to be running hills you may want taller then 4.10 gears. IF you have a 07-11 with automatic I would go with 5.13's. AEV's strength is in the drop brackets and many others are making them now so I would figure on what the weight of your jeep is going to be loaded down and pick some coils that are going to be able to handle the weight and go from there. A 2"-2.5" is pretty simple and does not need many of the extra components that a larger lift needs. You will get nothing but benefits from adding flat fenders. They will offer more clearance for the tires and give you a better look to your rig. A steel or aluminum set may be better then the bushwhackers so you can stand on them if you have a roof rack.

Good luck with the build.

Yes the model/ year I'm looking at is a 12- 15 JKU because of the better 3.6 with auto. What is an "Aussie locker" and will 5.13's fit in a 30? Thank you for the excellent point about the flat fenders. Is there a web site that sells used Rubi hub to hub front ends like a wrecking yard? Recommendations for coils? Thanks again Dirtman.

An aussie lockers is non selectable locker you can install your self and only cost a couple hundred dollars. OME makes coils for heavier vehicles. 5.13 will fit in a D30 but for 35's I would look at 4.56 or 4.88 if you see lots of hills. You will find rubi axles in the for sale section from time to time for $1500-2000

Thank you so much Dirtman! You have been most helpful and I sincerely appreciate it!

Such a great thread! Thanks for the great advice Dirtman!

Cheers!
DJ

Great thread guys. I'm glad to have found it. I'm also glad I haven't done any major mods yet. This changes my thoughts on what I was going to do. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.

Sent from my iPhone using JK-Forum

The link in the SHOCK section of the original post is 404ed.

http://www.jkfreaks.com/forums/showt...uide-to-shocks

Can someone point me toward a good detailed run down of different shock types, brands, etc.?

Thanks.

A simple guide to shocks

if still does not work you can find it on jkfreaks.com

Would long arms with 2-2.5" coils be a waste on a JKU?