So long story short I got water in my Dana 30. I know, I know extend the breather tubes. Well this is what I found.



I caught it in time and everything is ok when I took it apart. So I got a new crush sleeve, pinion slinger, pinion seal and pinion nut.
This is where I am lost. I put the pinion back in then the crush sleeve then bearing then singer then seal then yoke. There is slack in and out and I can't figure it out. So my question is....
Is there a washer/ sleeve / something that goes between the pressed on bearing and the crush sleeve on the pinion to take that slack out.

Any info probably would be easier explained on the phone. My number is 7329105304. You can call or text or pm me.

 

Or if anyone has a diagram or instructions to set up jk Dana 30

 

I cant help you but I'd check YouTube for videos that cover a gear swap.

 

The problem is that you haven't crushed the crush sleeve. That thing is a bugger to start getting crushed. You will want the rear tires off the ground so you can turn the yoke by hand. After you start to get rid of that movement in and out that you feel then the sleeve is getting crushed and as soon as you don't feel any in and out movement you want to start turning the yoke around by hand and see how it feels. You will want to feel some resistance when you are turning it but not a lot. When it is right you will feel resistance kind of like when the oil filter has gotten the seal against the engine and you are turning it that last little bit. If you have access to a dial type inch pound torque wrench it should read somewhere around 20-30 inch pounds while rotating the yoke with 20 being better and 30 being at upper end of ok. If you find it being much above 30 you might consider starting the crush part over again with a new chrush sleeve. I don't have the exact specs handy for this rearend, just some ballpark figures from ones that I work on.

Just thought about something. We have a special bar that we bolt onto the yoke to stop it from turning when doing this. Hopefully you can set the parking break and that will hold it for you while doing this. Of course then you will have to release it when doing the rotation test after the sleeve is getting crushed. And that thing will crush easier after it starts crushing so only turn the pinion nut small amounts after that in and out movement is gone before checking.

 

I don't think its the crush sleeve. What parts go on the pinion. What I have in order from inside out.

Pinion
Bearing that's pressed to the pinion
Crush sleeve
Bearing
Slinger
Seal
Yoke
Pinion bolt

 

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-6.pdf

Page 20/21 has all the pieces in order.

 

Ok you are there with it and I am not. From the way you described it that is what I would have thought it was. I build these things on a different brand of vehicle all the time and have felt what I thought you were describing and it goes away after the crush sleeve is crushed, that is the purpose of it. That is what give the rearend some preload and takes up the slack to get the bearings held fast against the cups. I am certified by the manufactuer that I work for as well as ASE, sorry that wasn't your problem.

 

I mean we had a 3/4 gun on that and it would even crush it. If it was the crush sleeve holding us up .... Well I guess I need a bigger gun

 

I use a 1/2 drive breaker that is about 3 feet long with a cheater bar on it to get it crushed. Like I said it is a real bugger getting that thing to start crushing. I have the strongest 1/2 impact that snapon sells and it won't crush it. Using that tool that we bolt onto the yoke I stick it up against the leaf spring and hold it in place with a bungee during this process and the truck is on a lift. Have had to do some on the ground and that makes it even harder, although then you can let the ground hold that tool for you while you use all your strength to try turning the breaker with extender. I really don't enjoy doing those things. I wish they were all like the big danas, they use shims to set the preload. A little harder since you have to put in a shim and torque it to spec (about 450 foot pounds) then check rotational torque and it is right take it apart and install the seal and then reinstall the yoke and if it is wrong take it apart and put in either a smaller or larger shim and check again and so on.

 

How much play does the yoke have in and out before you crush the sleeve