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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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Need help super bad

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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 02:43 PM
  #11  
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Should I tighten the rear sway bar links before I place the tires back on the rear axle? How about the front sway bar links before I mount the tires on the front axle? I don't want to tighten them down if I need to have the full vehicle weight on before tightening them down.
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 02:51 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Cutter Bay
Should I tighten the rear sway bar links before I place the tires back on the rear axle? How about the front sway bar links before I mount the tires on the front axle? I don't want to tighten them down if I need to have the full vehicle weight on before tightening them down.
You can tighten them with the axle on jack stands, after you've removed the jack stands from the frame, and before you reinstall the wheels.
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 03:06 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by planman
If the bushings are twisted/preloaded/binding to the wrong ride height, they will fail prematurely, and you will have a jittery ride. Kind of like running on a twisted ankle.

The bushing bolt sleeves will twist away from the bushings, the bushings will crack/separate, etc.

Loosen all the bolts in all 8 control arms and both trackbars, vigorously rock the vehicle side-to-side and forward-and-back, and then retorque everything to spec. This should be done with the full weight of the vehicle on the ground so that the bushings are pinched between the brackets in a neutral position.

Lower control arm, trackbar, and rear upper arm bolts have a torque spec of 125 ft lbs. Front upper arms have a spec of 75 ft lbs.

Originally Posted by planman
You can tighten them with the axle on jack stands, after you've removed the jack stands from the frame, and before you reinstall the wheels.
Planman,

The first quote, do I do this with axles on Jackstands (no tires on) like the 2nd quote?
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 03:39 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Cutter Bay
Planman,

The first quote, do I do this with axles on Jackstands (no tires on) like the 2nd quote?
As long as the full weight of the jeep is on the springs, it shouldn't matter whether the jeep axles supported by tires or by jackstands. It is a little more preferable if it is on the tires because you can rock the vehicle a little side-to-side and forward-and-back to make sure that everything is unbound and where it will sit while driving. On jackstands, they might be loaded slightly forward or back, but at least they wouldn't be twisted.
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 03:47 PM
  #15  
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I'll go tire on route. I just wasn't sure.

Thank you.
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 06:08 PM
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Had to stop. I could not get the driver's side front coil on with the 2.5" spacer. It just simply would not go up enough to go over the bottom plate lip. Auto parts stores are closed. I'll rent a coil compressor tomorrow morning and try to finish up. The rear end has had tires put back on, and lowered off of jack stands. I installed my Spidertrax 1.5" wheel spacers tonight all the way around. I wish it wouldn't sag too much, the rear looks great right now. I really like the looks of it. I hate leaving it at the office shop tonight. I sure wanted to see it completed. I have an alignment at the dealership Monday morning. Can't wait to see it tomorrow. I took a few before pics this morning. I had installed a Warn Elite and Zeon 10 a week or 2 ago. My dd is coming together nicely. Thank you to all who have provided feedback along my way. It is greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Josh
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 06:33 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Cutter Bay
Had to stop. I could not get the driver's side front coil on with the 2.5" spacer. It just simply would not go up enough to go over the bottom plate lip. Auto parts stores are closed. I'll rent a coil compressor tomorrow morning and try to finish up. The rear end has had tires put back on, and lowered off of jack stands. I installed my Spidertrax 1.5" wheel spacers tonight all the way around. I wish it wouldn't sag too much, the rear looks great right now. I really like the looks of it. I hate leaving it at the office shop tonight. I sure wanted to see it completed. I have an alignment at the dealership Monday morning. Can't wait to see it tomorrow. I took a few before pics this morning. I had installed a Warn Elite and Zeon 10 a week or 2 ago. My dd is coming together nicely. Thank you to all who have provided feedback along my way. It is greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Josh
With control arms loose and sway bar disconnected the coils should easily go back on without compressor
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Tooadvanced
With control arms loose and sway bar disconnected the coils should easily go back on without compressor
And the trackbar and shocks disconnected.

You're right. There should be no need for a coil compressor at 2.5".

He might need to put the floor jack underneath the opposite side in order to articulate the axle.
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 06:44 PM
  #19  
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I know everybody hates to do this for some reason but remove the 4 15mm bolts holding the front DS so you get some extra droop. I know on mine the drive shaft was resting on the exhast so it did not want to drop as far down. 5 minutes removing the four bolts freed everything up to drop down.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixC0OzIF5Go&feature=player_embedded
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 07:28 PM
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I'll try these tricks in the morning. I just got home and out of a good hot shower.
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