Hello there fellow off-roading enthusiasts,

I've got a 2014 JKU that's rolling on 40s, currently, she's rocking metal cloak 3.5" springs and midarms (stock length arms), but let's just say she's a bit of a heavy girl with a little too much squat for my taste. I am thinking about giving it a little more lift but I don't want to make her so high that she becomes a liability on the road. I mean, I don't want to have to file a flight plan every time I hit the highway, you know what I mean?

Anyway, it’s hard to tell exactly how much lift it has right now because of the squat but I am guessing 2.5-3”. And my wife says 3” just isn’t getting the job done. So what I am trying to figure out is if I install some longer springs would it be wise to go long arm? I know it’s a controversial topic but let’s assume I want to avoid the road manners of a monster truck because let’s face it, I am half way there already.

Three links, four links, radius arms… Four thousand, five thousand, twenty-five thousand. Guys, I can’t make heads or tails of this subject matter. At the moment I’m still rather fond of my Fox 2.5 shocks so coil overs aside, what’s a good next step for a suspension upgrade? Can someone break down the actual performance repercussions for the different options?

Many Thanks!

 

If you really wanna spend that 25k............ https://genright.com/products/suspen...lling-chassis/

 

that kit is closer to $50k since it needs axles.
You don't need a long arm and there really are not any good long are kits out there with the exception of the Genright and it has some design that makes you scratch your head. The tow biggest issues on the JK is the fuel tank that most people don't want to relocate and the front just does not have room for the link brackets that are more then a couple inches longer than stock and you are basically forced to have too little separation on the frame side links in the front.

Going higher with the factory lenght short arm is really just a matter of fixing the steering and roll center. Raising the rear track bar bracket as high as you can and doing a drag link flip. No sure what is not cutting it on 40's and 3" of lift? A custom double triangulated rear with 14"coil overs is about the best set up you can get, stretched with a fuel cell and some 12" coil overs up front. 3-4" of actual lift. You are looking at $10-15 k depending on components chosen.

 

Looks like the Genrite elite kit is compatible with my axles so that shouldn’t be an issue. And am not opposed pawning the wife’s wedding ring for a new lift kit, so long as its worth the hassle; she’s a feisty woman... I think what I am talking about is diminishing returns... Doubling performance once might cost 5k, but doubling it again might cost 50k. And sometimes you can get 90% of the way to peak performance for considerably less cost. I don’t know if that is how suspension works but that is what I am trying to figure out.

If I can get a RockKrawler 3-link setup for 5-6k, how much better is the Genrite for 20k? Is Genrite four times better?

What’s wrong with my setup? Well, like I said she’s a heavy girl and those 3.5” metal cloak springs are getting a workout. Holding up a V8 and 40s is like trying to bench press my high school sweetheart so I know that kind of pain... It’s hard to figure but I might be under 3” of total lift… The front is running something like 4" of bump and you can feel that small gap when touching down on a landing if you know what I mean...

At the end of the day, I want to do what makes sense for the rig and the terrain (Colorado/Moab). There are a lot of ways to spend 10+k on the suspension, but from what I am hearing it’s Genrite or bust? Or is that a misinterpretation?