Metal cloak makes great lifts, I love mine. I have the 5100 bilstine shocks and the 3.5 game changer complete kit.
As far as regearing, a thousand people will tell you that they did not regear and there jeep runs great they just don't use 6th gear or overdrive any more...
The truth is that regearing is just important as new tires when you lift.
If you don't regear it puts a lot of strain on the rest of the drive train from the gears to the motor.

I just recently bought a 2013 jkur with 35's and the stock 4:10's
The previous owner told me that it drives great with this setup!
After only a few hundred miles I decided that I need to regear, It completely sucks at interstate speeds.
When I use the cruise control it constantly downshifts at every slight incline and has no power.
That may not bother some people but I can't stand it knowing that it is Taking a toll on my trans.

I hope this helped, and definitely shop around for prices on regearing.
I have gotten prices from $850 labor+parts to $3000 both prices are from shops that I trust to do the work. BTW the parts for my regear using the existing carrier are $400.
If you are going from 3.73 to 4:56 you will need new carriers so it will cost a little more.

Had the RE 3.5 lift on jkur and got the job done swapped out for 3.5 RK X factor love all the flex and highway handling

Attachment 647495

I just bought a new 75th Anniversary and had Jeep install the Mopar 2" lift kit. I don't off road much so it was more important I didn't void my warranty (I assume an aftermarket lift could void major portions of the Jeep). The lif was $2200 installed. I added 17x9 Rockstar II's + 35x12.5x17 Nitto Terra Grapplers and it rides great IMO.

Ok,so regearing may be the way to go... if I want to make sure the trans can handle the new setup. I previously had a 2dr jk on a 3" bds lift and 35" nittos ... manual... and did nottt re-gear and it drove wonderfully. I mean, 6th gear on the freeway didn't do a damn thing.

I was originally leaning towards the AEV Dual Sport but after doing quite a bit of research this is the lift., It comes with Fox shocks. I'll be going with same size tires as you, but likely the BFG KO2's. I think the problem more people haven't looked at this lift in much detail is because it's listed as a 2in lift but it's actually a 2.5-3in lift. Everyone that has installed the Mopar 2in lift has reported just over 3in of lift in the front and just over 2.5in lift in the rear.

Guys

If you are looking to lift your DD on a budget, make sure you get a system you can easily build upon as your off-road needs increase. It happens! LOL. It is like a sickness...

Make sure you address the items that are needed for daily driving, like caster correction etc. so the vehicle handles as good as stock if not better with the right components.

When it comes to judging what systems are best for you, think about how hard you are going to be on your Jeep off-road. There are a lot of good components out there for DD's and some companies that have pretty well tuned suspension systems, but longevity and durability for off-road beatings is where the difference will show...

Good luck with your builds..

RK

I believe that. The car rides much higher than stock. And yes, those are Fox shocks. Here's some photos...lift and before/after.

Attachment 647578Attachment 647579

OME makes great riding lifts.

Another important part of the Mopar 2in lift is that if you have a 2012+ which you do, then the lift is more expensive but it doesn't necessarily have to be. The price difference with the 2012+ Mopar lift solution is that they provide an additional replacement driveshaft and Yoke (+$500). The problem with the 2012+ is that with the exhaust routing, it will interfere with the driveshaft when flexing. All the other lifts in this price range/height/capability provide other less expensive solutions to this same problem or don't include a solution at all. If you want to save some $ on the mopar lift for a 2012+, you can always purchase the less expensive Mopar kit which is the exact same kit but doesn't include the driveshaft and then additionally purchase one of those less expensive solutions to this problem. If you have a 2007-2011, like I do then you purchase the less expensive 2in Mopar lift which doesn't include the replacement driveshaft/yoke.

From Mopar:
So when I compared the AEV Dual Sport XT 2.5" lift to the Mopar 2in lift, I learned the following.
1. The amount of lift height are about the same between both kits, where you're able to use 35" tires on either.
2. You get a much more complete kit with the Mopar lift than the AEV kit for less $ (AEV=$1K, Mopar=$760 w/o drive shaft, $1235 w/driveshaft & Yoke)
3. Both put a focus on maintaining or improving DD on-road comfort performance and are very similar on-road, where the AEV has been described as being a little more "plush" feeling and the Mopar is a bit firmer but both ride well on-road for DD use. So it becomes more of a preference difference. You want it to ride more like a Cadillac(AEV) or a Stock JK(Mopar)?
4. The Mopar lift provides much more flex than the AEV off-road (Mopar Fox shocks have longer extension than the AEV Bilsteins), the AEV sacrifices off-road flex for those plush on-road manners.

I originally had my heart set on the AEV Dual Sport XT 2.5" lift, but when I finally compared it to the Mopar 2in lift, which I previously overlooked because I thought it wouldn't be able to fit 35's, I realized with the Mopar lift I would be getting a better lift for less money, which had good on-road DD performance, while out performing the AEV off-road. Sounded like a win/win to me.

All very good points.

What does RK use for caster correction in their lifts? Here's the options from my current understanding along with some noted pluses and minuses of each.

Caster Correction Options (plus/minuses):
1. Cam Bolts (Very Inexpensive, allow caster adjustment, does not reduce ground clearance/Causes damage that needs additional parts to fix if you later choose to upgrade to a higher height, Not very robust damage on rocks, tend to loose adjustment).
2. Relocation Brackets (Better solution that eliminates minuses of Cam bolts, mid-price economical solution, adjustable for lift upgrade/Reduces ground clearance by about 1in, can be damaged on rocks).
3. Fixed Lower Control Arm replacements (Improved solution over Relo Brackets, does not lose ground clearance, does not lose caster adjustment/ expensive cost at least 2X as relo brackets, no caster adjustment will need to replace if upgrade/raise lift in future).
4. Adjustable Lower Control Arm replacements (Same pluses as fixed LCA, allows caster adjustment, can be further adjusted if upgrade lift/ Most costly solution).
5. Adjustable Upper Control Arm replacements (Slightly lower cost than LCA replacement/Limited adjustment capabilities, likely can't be used if upgrade lift in the future.)