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New Drive shafts or not?

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Old 01-12-2012, 05:37 AM
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Default New Drive shafts or not?

Possibly looking at upgrading to a RC 3.5" Series II Suspension lift for a 09 JKU. Is buying extended drive shafts necessary, or recommended? I would rather spend the money all at once rather than breaking something and fixing it down the road. I do plan on wheeling it not real hard core but be able to put it through a decent beating and i do plan to disconnect the sway bar.
And if new drive shafts are recommended do i need both or just the front?
Old 01-12-2012, 06:18 AM
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being that you have a 4-door, only the front would be something you'll want to do and only if you have an auto.
Old 01-12-2012, 06:21 AM
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so with a 6-speed even if i wanna disconnect i should be fine? what about tearing the front drive shaft boot?
Old 01-12-2012, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by desertrunner
so with a 6-speed even if i wanna disconnect i should be fine? what about tearing the front drive shaft boot?
that only happens if you have an auto as the boot catches on the sump pan of the transmission. a 6-speed will not have this issue.
Old 01-12-2012, 06:27 AM
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awesome thanks for the expertise
Old 01-12-2012, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
that only happens if you have an auto as the boot catches on the sump pan of the transmission. a 6-speed will not have this issue.
I know I've seen this in a post before, but what is the sump pan? I"m looking to add 1" spacers to my 2.5" TF coil. I'm guessing this should be something I look out for.
Thanks
Old 01-12-2012, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by rdubb1031
I know I've seen this in a post before, but what is the sump pan? I"m looking to add 1" spacers to my 2.5" TF coil. I'm guessing this should be something I look out for.
Thanks
with just 2.5" of lift and shocks that are made specifically for it, nothing will happen. if you go taller or install shocks that allow for more droop, your front drive shaft will catch on the lip of the sump pan when flexing and, in addition to tearing the slip shaft boot, you will eventually start peeling the pan down and potential cause a leak.

please be advised that this information only applies to 2007-11 JK's. 2012's have different issues and ones that apply to both autos and manuals.
Old 01-12-2012, 07:11 AM
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Don't mean to hijack, but what is different about the 12. I have a 12 unlimited sport manual with 3.5" (2.5 tf coils and 1.0 tf spacers) up front and 2.5 tf coils in the rear.
Old 01-12-2012, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
with just 2.5" of lift and shocks that are made specifically for it, nothing will happen. if you go taller or install shocks that allow for more droop, your front drive shaft will catch on the lip of the sump pan when flexing and, in addition to tearing the slip shaft boot, you will eventually start peeling the pan down and potential cause a leak.

please be advised that this information only applies to 2007-11 JK's. 2012's have different issues and ones that apply to both autos and manuals.
Are you saying that the 1" spacers with coils would not have the same problems as just a 3.5" lift?

do you still recommend the Coast 1310 DS?
Old 01-12-2012, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 12JKUSD
Don't mean to hijack, but what is different about the 12. I have a 12 unlimited sport manual with 3.5" (2.5 tf coils and 1.0 tf spacers) up front and 2.5 tf coils in the rear.
the position of the exhaust cross over is different and both manual and autos will have the front drive shaft make contact with it if you have enough droop.

Originally Posted by rdubb1031
Are you saying that the 1" spacers with coils would not have the same problems as just a 3.5" lift?

do you still recommend the Coast 1310 DS?
what i'm saying is that the problem is with the amount of droop you have and that will be determined by shock length. if you have new longer shocks to accomodate the taller lift you'll have, yes, you will have a problem.

yes, i would still recommend a coast 1310.


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