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OME Install in-progress. Thoughts and pics included

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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 08:36 PM
  #41  
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Nice pics cju777 can't wait to take her out just waiting for a couple more parts and she will be ready. I'm moved from Colorado to Utah some nice country there. Maybe we will see you in Moab if your going.

Last edited by Preciousmetal; Mar 10, 2009 at 08:49 PM.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 09:59 PM
  #42  
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can you post a link to the "Wayoflife" post refered to in the 1st post in this thread?
thanks
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 11:26 PM
  #43  
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can you post a link to the "Wayoflife" post refered to in the 1st post in this thread?
It's in JK Write-Ups. Check the index, you'll find it in the suspension/steering section...

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...ation-write-up
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 05:50 PM
  #44  
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After setting up my sway bar links I did have to get some Spidertrax wheel spacers so the sway links clear the rims. I'm using stock rims with a 6.25 offset. If you using other rims than the stock ones you should be fine as long as you have a 4.50 or less off set or back space. Anyway the JK is ready to do some wheeling now. I hope this will help you out if you install any lift, just be ready for these little surprises that come you way.
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 06:13 PM
  #45  
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Sounds good, go hit some trails!
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 03:31 AM
  #46  
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Default Thanks for the Dremel Suggestion

[QUOTE=Schantin;962897]....Anyhow, the biggest deviation I've had so far have been the swaybar endlinks. I went with the Currie adjustable links. Well, they are too darn long for a 2" lift (even with a spring difference measured at 3".) The stock endlinks were measured at 5.25" from the centerline of the upper and lower mount holes. Fully threaded, the Currie endlinks were 10.25" using the same measurement.



I used a heavy duty cutoff wheel on a dremel and removed 1.25" on each side of the threaded portion of the endlink. The resulting endlink fully threaded was reduced to 8.25", perfect for the 3" spring height difference that I measured on the springs



When I mounted the new endlinks, I noted that they are "standard" bolts and nuts vs the metric used on the factory Jeep hardware. In short, I had to ream the upper sway bar mount hole about 1mm to get the new bolt/endlink to fit. I used a diamond carbide cutter on my dremel to do this.

Upper swaybar hole that needs to be reamed:


Endlink installed after reaming the upper mount hole:


Hi Schantin,

I am in the process of installing the OME LT kit that I purchased from David at Northridge. I thought I was prepared for this install... I have been accumulating tools for the past couple of years thinking that I had everything I would need. Boy, was I wrong. After four trips back to Home Depot, I hope I am over the hump.

One trip yesterday was for a 1/2" drill bit that could be used to enlarge the front sway bar holes. I worked for an hour and managed to trash a 1/2" Milwaukee drill bit (brand new before I started). I tried an older 1/2" bit that had been laying around, and it was trashed, too.

I remembered reading your post and thought about my Dremel. I though... You must be kidding. If I wore out two drill bits, a little Dremel wouldn't make a dent. I was going to head back to Home Depot for your diamond cutter suggestion when I remembered a kit that I had received as a gift. There are more Dremel attachments than I will ever use, and there isn't an index to them all. So, I chose one that was basically a small small sphere of about 1/4" diameter on the end of the tool shaft... it had something impregnated onto the surface. Diamonds? Hell.. there were three of those types of attachments, so trashing one wouldn't be a big deal. Must have been diamonds! I worked my way through both holes in the time it would have taken me to go to the hardware store and back.

Thank you for your suggestion!

That little dude worked great. I am really surprised.

I even called David to make sure I was doing the right thing with the 1/2" drill bit... he said he has done that on installs with no problem. (I also mentioned to him that I thought I had read somewhere that someone had used a ream, which he said would work.) I couldn't find one within a half hour drive, so I decided to try the Dremel.

About the length of the extensions, I need to read your post, and some of the follow-up posts again. Is it necessary to cut the extension shafts? (I just haven't gotten to that point yet... I don't want to cut them unless it is necessary.)

Besides the Dremel, the other tool that has proved most valuable is the magnetic pick-up tool I bought at a Sears liquidation. When installing the upper control arms with the replacement bolts/nuts I used a lot of care to make sure I didn't drop anything into the frame rail. No problem with the bolt install. But, as I was pulling the socket extension out of the hole in the frame I was distracted... and I hit the socket on the edge of the hole... and the socket popped off. I thought Oh Crap (in stronger language). I thought I would have a rattle for the life of the Jeep. I managed to cram that long-shafted little magnet down in the hole and work it back, wiggling it around until I heard what I thought was the socket... working it slowly toward the hole, I was able to get the socket to a point where I could grab it.

I'll be posting my observations on the install; but, I am going to wait until I get it completed. My JK is not my DD, so I can work on it a few hours in the evening. I'll be the first to admit I am slow, and I am really taking my time to make sure I do it the right way.

Thanks again for the Dremel reference. I laughed when I first read it; but, it was the right solution. (I think the problem with the drill bit has to do with the fact that the bit contact surface with the metal is so minute that the cutting portion of the bit got so hot that it just cooked itself before it could get the job done.)

Take Care

Jeff
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 01:40 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Northridge4x4
They are not required but still nice to have.

David
That's what I was wondering. If you go OME HD in the front and standard in the rear, you don't need to install either front or rear adj tracbars? And will this combo still fit 35" tires?

If you do HD front and back, do you have to install both front and back tracbars?

Thanks... Ralph
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 04:38 PM
  #48  
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As David said, adj trackbars are not necessities, but are nice to have. If I were to do this lift again, I might consider a set of front adj control arms before the trackbars...
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 06:07 PM
  #49  
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You don't have to do the track bars, but I would if I was you it will recenter your axles and it someday you want to go with a high lift you'll already have the track bars. I just finished some of my lift with the JKS disco's or sway bar links. These links have metric bolts and require no drilling just adjust the lenght and bolt them on. I still need the rear brake lines and a front drive shaft then I will feel it is prefect for me.
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 06:46 PM
  #50  
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thanks, but I'm trying to make sure I have this clear...

If I go with OME HD front and rear, is it important to install an adjustable tracbar in the front and/or rear

If I go OME HD front, non-HD rear, is it important to install an adjustable tracbar in the front and/or rear

Thanks
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