Thanx again for looking in this David.

Can't wait to receive mine that was ordered AND shipped today by you guys!

 

OK, i want to see some flexin shots of this lift. I remember the older tj OME lifts were only 2" but could flex like crazy, they usually could out flex allot of other systems on the market. I want to see if this holds true with the new jk. Come on, i want to see this thing maxed out

i wonder how it would compare to a 3" FT lift ???

 

My darling wife just bought me this lift from Northridge and it is arriving Friday (early Christmas present)! Can't wait! I have 5 Procomp 8179 rims (17x9) sitting in my den. Now, all I need is the rear bumper (looking at LoD rear w/ tire carrier) and my tires (Toyo MT's 35x12.5).

 

Has anyone noticed that Budget Boosts are much more pronounced on a Rubicon because of it's allready aggresive stance?

 

That's funny, the OME on the TJ's I wheeled with did not have as much droop due to the shocks being too short...

?

The easiest way to cross check would be to measure the stock shocks extended/compressed lengths, the 3" SL extended/compressed lengths, and compare them to the OME shock lengths.

Obviously, on a live axle suspension....the droop is all gravity after you ease off of the springs...so either the arms, or the shocks, and maybe drive train reach, are typically your limiting factors....assuming brake lines, diff breathers and what not you extend/make slack for normally, are attended to.

 

It looks good, but you could use a little more rubber in the wells.

 

Given the actual height increase attained with this lift (3" or so), does anyone know if it will cause drive shaft issues on a 2 door??

 

As the suspension is dropped down it has to rotate around the hard point of the track bar which is a fixed distance to the wheels. So what happenes is the entire suspension shifts over towards the drivers side. The bigger the lift the bigger the shift. It could all still be straight and true but wouldn't be centered under your Jeep anymore.

So an adjustable track bar or a track bar relocation bracket is used to add distance from the hard point bushing to the wheel. then you can push it back to proper alignment with the frame.

Another issue with lifting is that the castor angle changes. As it gets shallower it gets more "darty" or "flighty". If severe enough this can become dangerous and expensive. The added wear to suspension from always being "worked" can add up to some big bucks down the road. This gets worse with bigger tires too. The added weight etc. can make it a real bear to drive.

Some folks add an aftermarket stabilizer to beef up the dampening and this serves to hide some of that dartyness.

I don't recomend hiding such problems but rather resolving them properly.

Once everything is porperly dialed in THEN add the beefier shock as it WILL smooth out the steering's "comeback" when offroad and that will help fight fatigue on long days. The stock stabilizer is just fine for onroad and off and should not be required. But it's a cheap upgrade as its from to 40 to 60 dollars to add.

Hope this helps your understanding as I learned the hardway myself...

 

The JK half doors look is growing on me . Looks good on a lifted JK.

 

Do any of the 2" - 2.5" BB kits have this track bar or track bar relocation bracket included in the kit? I'm looking at going with the TF 2.5BB. Thanks!