OME lift Issues...
Since I installed my 2"OME HD my steering wheel wants to turn left all the time, I basically have to hold the wheel firmly to go straight. I have had an alignment, and I checked the pressure in all tires and they are all at 30PSI, I have adj Trcakbars and they have been adjusted. I got approx 4" of lift... should I just wait it out and let it settle or solve the problem now which in turn may not be a problem later.... again steering pulling to the left .... NEVER right NEVER straight HELP...
A pull to one side is typically caused by uneven tire pressure, a sticking brake caliper or worn out/damaged steering/suspension components. I see that you are now riding on 35's. Did your alignment shop try to adjust your toe in a bit more? Are you sure that your axles are centered and if you don't have adjustable control arms up front, did your shop install cam bolts or did they not address your caster at all?
I'd take a look t that alignment print out.

My guess is more toe was needed than was used...they probably tried for stock #'s like most shops that don't know what they're doing on a lifted rig, etc. Most factory specs call for a bit of toe difference to compensate for road crown...steering you a little bit left, up towards the crown, to compensate for the banked effect...but lifted rigs need a bit more toe in for stability, especially with larger tires.
When they do an alignment "WITHIN" factory ranges, when it needed to be different due to the lift...it can magnify that intentionally miniscule difference into an actual force to fight against, etc.

Or it could be that other stuff, etc.

Food for thought.
4" for a 2" lift is a bit off anyway....adding armor, etc, soon?

My guess is more toe was needed than was used...they probably tried for stock #'s like most shops that don't know what they're doing on a lifted rig, etc. Most factory specs call for a bit of toe difference to compensate for road crown...steering you a little bit left, up towards the crown, to compensate for the banked effect...but lifted rigs need a bit more toe in for stability, especially with larger tires.
When they do an alignment "WITHIN" factory ranges, when it needed to be different due to the lift...it can magnify that intentionally miniscule difference into an actual force to fight against, etc.

Or it could be that other stuff, etc.

Food for thought.
4" for a 2" lift is a bit off anyway....adding armor, etc, soon?
Check your steering stabilizer. Mine had been damaged and was sticking at a certain point. Wouldn't allow the steering to re-center after turning. As WOL said, could easily be a sticky caliper too.
Edit: Could also be a slipped belt in one of your front tires. Rare, but possible. Try swapping the fronts. Can't hurt.
Edit: Could also be a slipped belt in one of your front tires. Rare, but possible. Try swapping the fronts. Can't hurt.
Last edited by nukeman; Feb 10, 2008 at 09:09 PM.
They did not touch the Toe IN said it was close enough to Factory settings... I don't have adj Control arms and no cam bolts etc, I am hoping that the OME will settle to a point where it will return to normal... I will follow your write for adj toe in.. I willreport back!
Toe (in or out, RH or LH, total or otherwise) cannot cause a pull! Only a crooked steering wheel, tire wear and bad handling. Do not wait it out. If this happened directly after the lift install, there likely was a problem with the lift install.
To check for a tire pull, which is a possibility. Remove all left side tires with wheels and mount them on the right side. Mount remaining right side tires on the left. Drive. If the pull switches sides your tires are at fault, if not, the tires are not the problem.
To check for a brake pull... Go for a drive of 5 minutes or so, but not stop and go traffic. Check wheel temps with an IR gun directly after the drive. RH and LH front tires should be the same +- 10 degrees. RH and LH rear tires should be the same +- 10 degrees. Don't have an IR gun? Most mechanics have one, bribe them with Beer to obtain a loaner. One hotter wheel indicates sticking brakes.
To check for a tire pull, which is a possibility. Remove all left side tires with wheels and mount them on the right side. Mount remaining right side tires on the left. Drive. If the pull switches sides your tires are at fault, if not, the tires are not the problem.
To check for a brake pull... Go for a drive of 5 minutes or so, but not stop and go traffic. Check wheel temps with an IR gun directly after the drive. RH and LH front tires should be the same +- 10 degrees. RH and LH rear tires should be the same +- 10 degrees. Don't have an IR gun? Most mechanics have one, bribe them with Beer to obtain a loaner. One hotter wheel indicates sticking brakes.


