What paint did you use/should I use for the Riddler diff. covers I'm going to purchase next week? I'm looking at Rust-oleum Engine Enamel, says it's good to 500°. Would this be sufficient? If you have them what did you use? I'm trying to get everything together before they arrive.

 

Clean it up real good with some lacquer thinner, use some good primer. I'd recommend some two part zinc industrial epoxy if you could get your hands on it (not likely). Otherwise get the best rattle can brand you can find, but the better your surface prep the better everything on top of it will hold up. I primed mine and used Argent Metallic Automotive, against the black axles it looks gunmetal.

 

If your diff gets to 500 degrees, something is VERY wrong.

 

See my post on this thread https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/riddler-diff-cover-74729/

Anyone know if I can paint over Clear Coat Engine Paint? It didn't come out the color I wanted. Clear coat turned the Semi-Gloss Black more of a graphite color for some reason. I know this is overkill.

Looks like the people using Rustoleum have had good results. Primed first is recommended if you want it to hold up a little better.

 

thanks for the replies.

 

I've also heard the rustoleum works very well on anything on the undercarriage, and it's cheep

 

Not sure what clear coat you used but in general automotive clears make the best sealers per se meaning if you were to base coat, clear coat a car and you later noticed the metallics of your base coat (the color coat your clear is applied over) were mottled/tiger striped the clear you had applied over said base coat would give you an excellent foundation to apply base coat/color over again.

Be sure to clean the clear coat first, sand with ~600 grit, clean again then apply your color/base coat. The reason you clean before sanding is that way you aren't sanding dirt/grime/grease into your sand scratches.

 

What he said but keep in mind when cleaning with a lacquer thinner/wax and grease remover the proper way is start with 2 clean hd paper towels. Wet one with the cleaning solvent and use the other to dry. The novice mistake is wiping the part to be painted with the wet rag over and over and assuming its cleaning the substrate.

The correct way is wipe up to 2'x2' area with the wet towel and BEFORE it dries, dry that same area with the other clean towel. If you let the cleaning solvent flash off / dry on its own it with wiping clean/dry with a clean towel you have accomplished nothing. While the novice approach mistake method may work there's also a fair chance it won't which can lead to fisheyes in the paint, lifting of the paint and/or possible adhesion issue.


Keep in mind too that because the surface appears uniformly dry to the eye its still very possible to have a light film of solvent across the panel which could lead to adhesion issues if you apply your coating on the panel before these solvents flash-off completely particularly our of the sand scratches. Your best insurance is to walk away for 10 min after you wipe and dry before you apply your coating.

 

thats what i used on the stock diff covers i have had no problems at all. that pain is nice and shiny when it's not dirty. but no peeling or anything. just saving up for some covers ill put them on when i do gears

 

Rustolim worked for me.