PR44 upgrade questions
Okay, so I think I might have bitten off more than I can chew. My 35's were bald and I found a great deal on some 37's from Discount Tire. Soooo I bought them. I have a d30 with sleeves in the front and a stock d44 in the rear. Haven't regeared yet but with the 3:73's I can deal with it. I wheel pretty often and this is my DD. A PR44 is in the near future but I don't have adjustable control arms. I'm on a 4" short arm lift. One of these days I have plans to have coil overs (obviously long arm). If I buy adjustable control arms now so I can swap to a PR44 can I use those when I change over to coil overs/long arm conversion?
You can run a pro rock 44 with the factory arms. Get the unlimited model that is caster corrected for the size lift you are going to run. If you are planning a long arm in the future then why spend the money on a set of short arms.
I would buy some joints you can re-use like the currie or metal cloak,, just have lowers made for now,, then when you are ready for the long arms buy the rest of the joints so you can adjust the whole set up, and fab up the long arms
I can run the unlimited without adjustable control arms? Maybe I misunderstood but I was told otherwise. (advised of rattling/shaking of driveshaft)
The factory driveshafts are better to run if you can, the only drawback to them is the fact they cannot be serviced. As long as the grease boots are in tact they should be good. I would just save the money and run the factory. A 1350 u-joint is totally unnecessary on a JK with the factory motor. A 1310 is more then strong enough and has more articulation then the 1350 joint.
Last edited by TheDirtman; Oct 19, 2013 at 08:53 AM.
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Personally, I don't care for the pro rock 44 other then the caster correction you can get with it. I don't see the cost benefit to it. If I were spending that much on a front axle I would at least go the 44/60 hybrid route or go the dana 60 route.



