Pro Rock 44 Unlimited
11-26-2015, 03:32 PM
#21
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Don't do high steer. Use 2.5" springs and clearance where needed. Pro steer ball joints are not worth it. They last no longer than others, cost 3x as much, and then cost $125 to rebuild. If you want 6paks, add a nitrogen setup to the list. You need to charge them every few months. A kit will run around $400 all in. If you wheel in rocks a lot, you may not want them in the rear. I went through 4 rears in one summer smashing them into rocks. Broke a nitrogen valve off almost every time out. Lastly, I think the PR44 is snake oil and not worth the cost. You can get a new Rubi axle for $3k less or buy a used one with the gears you want already in it. Prices have come way down. Nothing on a D44 was designed to run 37s. You can also buy a J8 housing for around $800, which has slightly thicker tubes. Truss and be done. $5k for a D44 is insane. You can build a 60 for half that.
11-26-2015, 08:09 PM
#24
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I'll agree. Went with the PR44U and love it. Opted for the RCVs and the ARB...it's what got me through the Rubicon with a stock D44 rear!
11-26-2015, 08:27 PM
#26
Yeah, although I have faith in my aptitude to learn and develop new skills, and I certainly appreciate the advice on saving money, modifying an axle housing is not something I wish to do at this time. Therefore, I will likely proceed with the Pro Rock 44 Unlimited and stick with 35's. Below is my new build plan:
1) Pro Rock 44 Unlimited housing with welded track bar bracket, Eaton E-Locker, 30 spline RCV shafts, 5:13 gear ratio (tentative), Pro Steer ball joints, and Reid knuckles.
2) Metalcloak 3.5" dual rate springs
3) Keep the Teraflex 9550's for now, pending more research on shocks.
4) Synergy flip drag link kit with sector shaft reinforcement bracket and track bar.
5) Notch frame for clearance and then measure for bump stops, if still required.
Am I missing anything else?
Thanks!
1) Pro Rock 44 Unlimited housing with welded track bar bracket, Eaton E-Locker, 30 spline RCV shafts, 5:13 gear ratio (tentative), Pro Steer ball joints, and Reid knuckles.
2) Metalcloak 3.5" dual rate springs
3) Keep the Teraflex 9550's for now, pending more research on shocks.
4) Synergy flip drag link kit with sector shaft reinforcement bracket and track bar.
5) Notch frame for clearance and then measure for bump stops, if still required.
Am I missing anything else?
Thanks!
11-26-2015, 09:00 PM
#27
JK Newbie
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Only thing the Reid knuckles benefit over stock is it moves your tierod up like an inch or someshit. Cheaper to drill out a stock knuckle IMO.
Last edited by HDGasser; 11-26-2015 at 09:08 PM.
11-26-2015, 10:21 PM
#28
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11-26-2015, 10:34 PM
#29
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PR44s can get a bit pricey, I was quoted $3700 for a currie 44, with a zip and 30 spline chromolys. Not much of a price premium there compared to a stock rubi 44 once you do a re-gear, BJs, and gussets. But $5500 for a fully built PR44 with pro steers and RCVs seems a bit crazy.
11-27-2015, 02:35 AM
#30
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