Problem with my 2011 Rubicon & 35" tires!
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JK Newbie
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Chariton Iowa
Problem with my 2011 Rubicon & 35" tires!
I just had a 3" fab tech lift kit installed on my 2011 4 door Rubicon with 35" Nitto M/T tires , it looks awesome but drives really bad ! The steering is way different,it feels like the shocks are really soft or the sway bar it not hooked up it sways side to side when driving, I also noticed if I swerve there is a light that comes on in the dash that looks like the traction control logo and then it makes a weird noise! Any ideas?
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 15,665
Likes: 4
From: Hammond Louisiana
Ditto on this, also if this is the basic 3in kit, make sure they installed all the brackets and drop pitman. Also the trackbar may need to be re-torqued to 125 ft lbs. It's also common for installers not to loosen and re-torque the components/control arms while weight is on the jeep on the ground. This kit also comes with cambolts for castor adj. If any of these things were not done, iot can affect your handling.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Chariton Iowa
Guys the abs brakes come on by them self when driving down the Hwy @ 60mph or when I hit a bump in the road! I compared the under carriage with a stock jeep today and everything looks the same as mine! Should the jeep be alined after installing the lift kit?
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JK Newbie
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Chariton Iowa
Yes it was 100% stock before! I can expect some difference but for my ABS brakes to come on in the front of the jeep when you turning and hit a bump in the road don't seam right to me! I think I will call fab tech tech support tomorrow to see what they think! I just thought maybe someone else has seen this problem also!
JK Super Freak
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 1
From: Austin, TX
Your lift isn't broken -- it either wasn't installed correctly or you need more parts to correct for the changes the lift introduced into your suspension geometry.
1. Make sure ALL bolts are torqued to spec.
2. That lift doesn't include control arms, so you've probably got flighty castor angles. 3" is right on the borderline for needing LCAs (personally, I wouldn't run any lift without them, but some people don't seem to have a problem with it).
3. What others have said.
You're going to have to spend some time -- and probably money -- to make this right.
1. Make sure ALL bolts are torqued to spec.
2. That lift doesn't include control arms, so you've probably got flighty castor angles. 3" is right on the borderline for needing LCAs (personally, I wouldn't run any lift without them, but some people don't seem to have a problem with it).
3. What others have said.
You're going to have to spend some time -- and probably money -- to make this right.
JK Newbie
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
From: edmonton alberta
winner winner chicken dinner 
Your lift isn't broken -- it either wasn't installed correctly or you need more parts to correct for the changes the lift introduced into your suspension geometry.
1. Make sure ALL bolts are torqued to spec.
2. That lift doesn't include control arms, so you've probably got flighty castor angles. 3" is right on the borderline for needing LCAs (personally, I wouldn't run any lift without them, but some people don't seem to have a problem with it).
3. What others have said.
You're going to have to spend some time -- and probably money -- to make this right.
1. Make sure ALL bolts are torqued to spec.
2. That lift doesn't include control arms, so you've probably got flighty castor angles. 3" is right on the borderline for needing LCAs (personally, I wouldn't run any lift without them, but some people don't seem to have a problem with it).
3. What others have said.
You're going to have to spend some time -- and probably money -- to make this right.