Prodigy Performance

Have a question about our turbo systems for the Jeep Wrangler? Here's the place to ask!

This first post will serve as an FAQ that will be updated to contain common questions with short answers and/or links to more detailed discussion.


Q. What is it?
A. A complete bolt-on turbo system for the Jeep Wrangler. More torque and power than any supercharger.


Q. Which vehicles are supported?
A. 2007-2011 Jeep Wranglers with the 3.8 V6 and 2012+ Jeep Wranglers with the 3.6 V6. Both automatic and manual transmissions.


Q. What systems are available for the 3.8 (2007-2011)?
A.

Stage 2:

• ~8 psi boost
• 278 hp / 343 lb-ft at the wheels
• Intercooled

Stage 3: (builds upon Stage 2)

• ~12 psi boost
• 352 hp / 409 lb-ft at the wheels
• Manual transmission only!
• Adds ARP head studs to clamp the heads down better, and a Boost-A-Pump to meet increased fuel demands.

Q. What systems are available for the 3.6 (2012+)?
A.

Stage 1:

• ~7 psi boost
• 330 hp / 342 lb-ft at the wheels
• No intercooler.

Stage 2: (builds upon Stage 1)

• ~8 psi boost
• 359 hp / 373 lb-ft at the wheels
• Adds intercooler and blow-off valve.

Q. How much does it cost?
A. Please visit our website for current pricing.


Q. If I buy Stage X, can I upgrade to Stage Y later?
A. YES! Our systems are built upon a single solid foundation, and we offer upgrade kits. Upgrading later will not be much additional effort/cost compared to starting at a higher stage.


Q. How long does it take to install?
A. Depending on the system, about 7-12 hours for a professional shop install. For a competent amateur backyard/driveway mechanic, a solid weekend is a realistic expectation.


Q. What kind of components are used in the turbo system?
A. We proudly use high quality components and support USA companies! Some examples:

• Garrett turbochargers
• Precision turbochargers
• TiAL wastegates and blow-off valves
• Diablosport handheld tuners
• Goodyear/Continental hoses
• CNC mandrel bent stainless steel exhaust pipes

Q. Do I need to run premium fuel?
A. Yes. The turbo systems are tuned for minimum 91 octane pump gas.


Q. What kind of scheduled/periodic maintenance does the turbo require?
A. For the turbo itself: None. Just change your engine oil and filter. The turbo is lubricated by your engine oil. For the rest of the system: The reusable air filter needs to be cleaned as it becomes dirty, and there's a few additional hoses added to your vehicle that should be included in typical periodic inspections for cracked/damaged hoses.


Q. Are there any special requirements for engine oil?
A. Because the engine oil is shared with the turbo, and oil is critical to the operation and longevity of the turbo, we highly recommend a quality full synthetic oil. We recommend an oil and filter change every 5000 miles.


Q. Are any additional modifications to my Jeep required before I can install a turbo system?
A. A minimum 2" lift is recommended to provide clearance for the turbo exhaust downpipe. More specifically, 2" bumpstop extensions in the front are required to guarantee zero chance of contact at full compression of the suspension. If your Jeep is a mall crawler that only drives on relatively smooth roads, then a small leveling kit may be adequate.

cb4017

I'm intrigued by your system and I'm wondering at how many miles I should forget about forced induction.

I have an 08 Unlimited with 86K miles. It has a manual tranny, 3.73 axles and 32" tires. Also lifted about 2-3 inches courtesy of OME. Runs good, uses very little oil. I've had used oil analysis done pretty regular which shows engine internals to be healthy with no concerns.

My Jeep spends a lot of time exploring the high desert at 4,000 altitude. Sometimes pulls a 1-2 thousand pound camp trailer. Normal operating RPM is 2-4K.

Thanks!

cb4017

Crap! Double post. Sorry!

SpicedCrusher

Nice. But for $7000 (almost $10,000 Canadian) plus install I think it's a little out of my budget.

Prodigy Performance

Sounds like you've been monitoring your engine well enough to be confident of its health. We see no reason to fear adding boost to a healthy engine with miles on it. It's really a personal decision, not much different than deciding whether you'd be comfortable purchasing a vehicle with a healthy higher mileage engine in it.

If you want to be thorough in confirming the health of the engine for extra peace of mind, you may consider a compression test.

I think the key to longevity with a major power adder like a turbo is to be smart and use common sense. Don't abuse it, and your engine should live a long life. Allow the engine and drivetrain to fully warm up before using substantial boost, avoid abusive hard launching/shifting, avoid prolonged continuous use of boost, don't shut the engine down with a hot turbo right after running it hard, etc.

Since you mentioned altitude and towing, one thing I would personally feel uncomfortable with if I was concerned about maximum longevity would be extended steep freeway climbs while towing at lower RPMs on boost. Yes, the turbo can spool and produce some substantial boost/gains under high load at freeway speeds down around 2500 rpm, and it's great for maintaining speed up hills, adjusting speed, etc., for short periods of time without downshifting. But to rely on that boost for long periods of time up a steep incline while pulling a trailer just sounds unnecessarily rough on the engine to me, even though it may technically have the power available to do it. If it were me, I would downshift in a situation like that to let my engine run under less stress/boost at a higher RPM, taking advantage of the torque multiplication of the lower gear. It would probably come down to monitoring engine temperature while towing up extended climbs and try a different gear if the engine temp begins to climb. I would feel the same regardless of the type of forced induction. Just be smart about it.

Your combination of transmission, tire size, and axle ratio sounds good. No worries there.

Also, turbo is a great choice for minimizing the effects of power loss at altitude . The way a wastegate works will lead to consistent boost at any altitude. Superchargers multiply pressure by a fixed rate, whereas the turbo system adds a fixed amount of pressure, no matter what the ambient pressure is. Superchargers suffer the same rate of power loss percent at altitude as naturally aspirated. Turbos also suffer power loss at altitude, but not as much.

Let me know if you have any follow-up questions or need clarification on anything.

~Jeff

DKJEEP

I am still in the middle of installing this kit on my 08' that currently has 111k on it. I talked with the folks at prodigy before I purchased the kit and they agreed 100% with my thoughts on a compression test. I have used synthetic oils since day 1 on my jeep and my test results were very good so I picked it up at Black Friday this last year when it was on sale. Although they will probably point you in this direction, you will need new plugs and you should replace the wires while you are in there. Other than that the kit is really complete and nice. This is mot my daily driver any longer so if the engine fails I'm not stranded.

cb4017

Jeff, can you post a dyno chart for your system installed on a 3.8L Jeep? I couldn't find one on the web site.

Thanks!

kyle521

Is it waterproof? these are jeeps that go offroad, not sport cars, so was that concept taken into the design at all?

Prodigy Performance

Here's a chart showing the stock 3.8, Stage 2 turbo, and Stage 3 turbo:



~Jeff

Prodigy Performance

I'm not really sure how to interpret this question (because the stock Wrangler is not waterproof), but here's my best attempt to answer...

Here's where the turbo is located (this is my vehicle, Stage 2 turbo for the 3.6 Wrangler):




The turbo system for the 3.8 Wrangler places the turbo in the same location.

The open element air filter and turbo inlet are a few inches lower than the factory air box. So, as shipped, your water fording depth would be decreased. If you don't go in deep water, but are simply concerned with splashing water, then add a water-repellant air filter wrap (such as OuterWears).

Some customers have modified snorkel systems to work with the turbo. Unfortunately, we have no details to share about how this was accomplished.

There is a vent for the top chamber of the wastegate (which, random guesstimate from memory, is about 1 foot lower than the turbo?). I personally added a banjo bolt hose barb fitting to mine (in place of the included filtered breather cap) and ran a breather hose up to a higher location just to ensure I don't get any dirty water splashing in there. If you want to do this, ask about including a spare hose fitting for the wastegate when ordering.

The BOV is up fairly high (in my picture, it is the shiny part just below the black silicon elbow that connects to the throttle body), and I have no plans to go in water that deep, so it doesn't concern me. If you are trying to turn your Wrangler into a submarine with a snorkel, etc., then you would probably want to use the Tial QR BOV instead of the included TiAL Q. The lower body portion of the QR can be purchased separately to convert a Q into a QR. This would allow you to run a hose from the BOV to a higher location - or even to your snorkel tubing for a fully re-circulating system. At this time, I'm not sure if the Tial QR is an option that could be included with the turbo system initially to save you the hassle of converting it yourself. I'm curious myself now, so I'll get an answer about that.

And finally, I'd just like to point out that not every Wrangler is taken through extreme off-road conditions, deep water crossings, splashing through mud holes, etc. In fact, most Wranglers do not see extreme off-road conditions. If you don't do any of these things with your Jeep, then the turbo system as-is out of the box is great. If you do play in water, then you can modify the system to protect against water intrusion to various degrees as necessary.

~Jeff