Questions/Concerns about going to 4.5" lift
12-19-2016, 07:16 PM
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Questions/Concerns about going to 4.5" lift
More or less just need some education in regards to other consideration that need to be looked at when going to a 4.5" or 5.5" short arm lift. My concerns are the prevention of damage to other components of the drive train when going to a lift of this size or higher.
I've seen some conversation in regards to the decreasing in caster of drive shafts and damage to transfer cases, ball joint issues...etc. This would be one of my main concerns.
Just wanting to know exactly what other considerations I need to address upon preceding with this lift.
I currently have a 2008 JKU 4dr. with only 26,000mile . It was a wrecked Jeep and upon repairing it the previous owner had the factory axels replaced with new crate Rubicon D44's (I believe they are 2010's). Its currently sitting on a BDS 3.5" lift with 33's.
My plan is to go to probably a 4.5" lift with 37X13.5" Nitto Mud Grapplers .....Just want to do this right the first time.
Any "professional expert" help, recommendation, suggestions would be greatly appreciated
I've seen some conversation in regards to the decreasing in caster of drive shafts and damage to transfer cases, ball joint issues...etc. This would be one of my main concerns.
Just wanting to know exactly what other considerations I need to address upon preceding with this lift.
I currently have a 2008 JKU 4dr. with only 26,000mile . It was a wrecked Jeep and upon repairing it the previous owner had the factory axels replaced with new crate Rubicon D44's (I believe they are 2010's). Its currently sitting on a BDS 3.5" lift with 33's.
My plan is to go to probably a 4.5" lift with 37X13.5" Nitto Mud Grapplers .....Just want to do this right the first time.
Any "professional expert" help, recommendation, suggestions would be greatly appreciated
12-19-2016, 07:42 PM
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Keep the current lift and add flat flares?
Which 4.5"/5.5" lift, what specific components are included?
You may not need to add anything else right away. Keep an eye on the front driveshaft joint at the tcase, when it starts spitting grease you can decide what to do about it. (or go ahead and replace the front if you want to throw money at it right away). Balljoints are just a wear item, not specifically because of lift height. They will fail faster with larger tires. Keep the stock ones, and look at upgrades when it's time to replace. (or again, throw money at it. Synergy or teraflex or the expensive dynatracs or whoever).
For the caster, you will have more of a trade-off as you go higher. Rotate the axle for better steering, and you starting inducing driveline vibrations. Rotate to reduce vibrations, and the steering gets flightier. Find a number you can live with, or swap to a caster corrected housing, or add locking hubs, or remove the front shaft, or ...
Which 4.5"/5.5" lift, what specific components are included?
You may not need to add anything else right away. Keep an eye on the front driveshaft joint at the tcase, when it starts spitting grease you can decide what to do about it. (or go ahead and replace the front if you want to throw money at it right away). Balljoints are just a wear item, not specifically because of lift height. They will fail faster with larger tires. Keep the stock ones, and look at upgrades when it's time to replace. (or again, throw money at it. Synergy or teraflex or the expensive dynatracs or whoever).
For the caster, you will have more of a trade-off as you go higher. Rotate the axle for better steering, and you starting inducing driveline vibrations. Rotate to reduce vibrations, and the steering gets flightier. Find a number you can live with, or swap to a caster corrected housing, or add locking hubs, or remove the front shaft, or ...
Last edited by nthinuf; 12-19-2016 at 07:51 PM.
12-20-2016, 01:35 AM
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Keep the current lift and add flat flares?
Which 4.5"/5.5" lift, what specific components are included?
You may not need to add anything else right away. Keep an eye on the front driveshaft joint at the tcase, when it starts spitting grease you can decide what to do about it. (or go ahead and replace the front if you want to throw money at it right away). Balljoints are just a wear item, not specifically because of lift height. They will fail faster with larger tires. Keep the stock ones, and look at upgrades when it's time to replace. (or again, throw money at it. Synergy or teraflex or the expensive dynatracs or whoever).
For the caster, you will have more of a trade-off as you go higher. Rotate the axle for better steering, and you starting inducing driveline vibrations. Rotate to reduce vibrations, and the steering gets flightier. Find a number you can live with, or swap to a caster corrected housing, or add locking hubs, or remove the front shaft, or ...
Which 4.5"/5.5" lift, what specific components are included?
You may not need to add anything else right away. Keep an eye on the front driveshaft joint at the tcase, when it starts spitting grease you can decide what to do about it. (or go ahead and replace the front if you want to throw money at it right away). Balljoints are just a wear item, not specifically because of lift height. They will fail faster with larger tires. Keep the stock ones, and look at upgrades when it's time to replace. (or again, throw money at it. Synergy or teraflex or the expensive dynatracs or whoever).
For the caster, you will have more of a trade-off as you go higher. Rotate the axle for better steering, and you starting inducing driveline vibrations. Rotate to reduce vibrations, and the steering gets flightier. Find a number you can live with, or swap to a caster corrected housing, or add locking hubs, or remove the front shaft, or ...
Allllllrighty,....lol. Thanks.
Guess I should have added. Money is not an issue. I have access to three different lifts. Another BDS like the one i currently have except a 4.5, a Clayton 4.5 and TF that I think is a 5.5. Im planning on upgrading the Ball joints regardless while I have it apart. Rather just do it now instead of later. Id also rather not wait for my T case to start spitting gear oil before decide what to do about it.
I've got a local shop thats doing all the work. They do amazing work but i'd just like to go into this a little more educated than I currently am in regards to what i want/need.
Like I said. Rather just spend the money now. Do it right and not have to worry about it in the future.
Again, thanks.
12-20-2016, 02:27 AM
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Id also rather not wait for my T case to start spitting gear oil before decide what to do about it.
The tcase explosion you are referring to is a whole combination of individual causes, and none of us can say if you might encounter it. Generally, it seems to be people who run taller lifts, with higher caster to help with the steering, which lowers the pinion, which makes the angles on the driveshaft joints steeper, which causes driveline vibrations, and have regeared to higher numerical gears, and are running an aftermarket double cardan driveshaft, and are doing 80+ on the freeway, and ignore the warning signs of an imminent failure or just don't notice in time, and ...
So go back to the paragraph on caster. If you keep the stock front housing, go for low caster and flighty steering so the driveshaft angles are good, or swap to a new housing with extra correction built in to it (around 2k for the housing), or chop the ends off the stock axle and fix the angles before welding them back on. Or take the front driveshaft completely out of the equation with locking hubs (1800ish? + a wheel bolt pattern change). Or just pull the front driveshaft, and reinstall when you get to the trail.
Last edited by nthinuf; 12-20-2016 at 02:47 AM.
12-20-2016, 06:30 AM
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IF money is not an issue I would suggest a long arm set up and a caster corrected front axle or adding the spyntec lock out hubs to the front axle so you can dial in the caster and not worry about highway vibrations.
At that lift height you should just figure on replacing everything in the suspension and steering links, you will want a high steer kit with flipped drag link. I would also recommend adding hydraulic assist and 5.38 gearing.
The red link in my signature would be worth reading for you.
At that lift height you should just figure on replacing everything in the suspension and steering links, you will want a high steer kit with flipped drag link. I would also recommend adding hydraulic assist and 5.38 gearing.
The red link in my signature would be worth reading for you.
12-20-2016, 08:56 AM
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IF money is not an issue I would suggest a long arm set up and a caster corrected front axle or adding the spyntec lock out hubs to the front axle so you can dial in the caster and not worry about highway vibrations.
At that lift height you should just figure on replacing everything in the suspension and steering links, you will want a high steer kit with flipped drag link. I would also recommend adding hydraulic assist and 5.38 gearing.
The red link in my signature would be worth reading for you.
At that lift height you should just figure on replacing everything in the suspension and steering links, you will want a high steer kit with flipped drag link. I would also recommend adding hydraulic assist and 5.38 gearing.
The red link in my signature would be worth reading for you.