Rear Bump stop install
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 356
Likes: 4
From: SoCal
How do I measure and know that my rear bumps are properly adjusted?? The shop measured how much shock shaft was out at full droop. But with the jeep on the ground there's 5.5" shock shaft and 7" of space before rear bumps hit strike plate. This doesn't seem logical to me. Am I missing something/wrong?? 
JK Jedi
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,362
Likes: 2,089
From: Willow Park, TX
Y, that math adds up to a bad result. If there's not enough bump though, that may or may not be their fault depending on the work they did and what you guys discussed. If they suggested a certain kit (looks like Metalcloak there 
) and certain shocks, but didn’t address the bump stops correctly, that’s on them. If you brought them parts and shocks on your own and had them put it on there, I’d put the onus on you to have figured out proper bumps. I can’t recall the exact measurement from upper to lower shock mount that helps with this calculation, but the best way is just cycling the suspension. It sounds like right now either you’re going to fully stuff your tire or fully compress your shock before you hit any bumpstop. How much bump do you have on there right now? I'm guessing none??
) and certain shocks, but didn’t address the bump stops correctly, that’s on them. If you brought them parts and shocks on your own and had them put it on there, I’d put the onus on you to have figured out proper bumps. I can’t recall the exact measurement from upper to lower shock mount that helps with this calculation, but the best way is just cycling the suspension. It sounds like right now either you’re going to fully stuff your tire or fully compress your shock before you hit any bumpstop. How much bump do you have on there right now? I'm guessing none??
JK Junkie
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,697
Likes: 2
From: Grosse Pointe, MI
That bump looks like it is too high.
On another note... That is really not acceptable routing of the brake line. I'd advise you to reroute it.
Also, that is quite a bit of thread showing on the lower control arm. It is hard to see though.
On another note... That is really not acceptable routing of the brake line. I'd advise you to reroute it.
Also, that is quite a bit of thread showing on the lower control arm. It is hard to see though.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 356
Likes: 4
From: SoCal
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 356
Likes: 4
From: SoCal
Y, that math adds up to a bad result. If there's not enough bump though, that may or may not be their fault depending on the work they did and what you guys discussed. If they suggested a certain kit (looks like Metalcloak there ) and certain shocks, but didn’t address the bump stops correctly, that’s on them. If you brought them parts and shocks on your own and had them put it on there, I’d put the onus on you to have figured out proper bumps. I can’t recall the exact measurement from upper to lower shock mount that helps with this calculation, but the best way is just cycling the suspension. It sounds like right now either you’re going to fully stuff your tire or fully compress your shock before you hit any bumpstop. How much bump do you have on there right now? I'm guessing none??
) and certain shocks, but didn’t address the bump stops correctly, that’s on them. If you brought them parts and shocks on your own and had them put it on there, I’d put the onus on you to have figured out proper bumps. I can’t recall the exact measurement from upper to lower shock mount that helps with this calculation, but the best way is just cycling the suspension. It sounds like right now either you’re going to fully stuff your tire or fully compress your shock before you hit any bumpstop. How much bump do you have on there right now? I'm guessing none??Trending Topics
JK Jedi
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,362
Likes: 2,089
From: Willow Park, TX
Just flexing the suspension out. It's a hassle to try to find an easy way in the garage, and odds are you don't have an RTI ramp handy. Easiest to just find a nice real world object close to home to go flex on and take a good look at things. I use a nearby concrete retaining wall that is about a 30-35 degree angle and just get the appropriate wheel up on that. Even better if you have a buddy that can help so they can watch things while you get flexed and tell you to stop if there's a clearance issue.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 356
Likes: 4
From: SoCal
Just flexing the suspension out. It's a hassle to try to find an easy way in the garage, and odds are you don't have an RTI ramp handy. Easiest to just find a nice real world object close to home to go flex on and take a good look at things. I use a nearby concrete retaining wall that is about a 30-35 degree angle and just get the appropriate wheel up on that. Even better if you have a buddy that can help so they can watch things while you get flexed and tell you to stop if there's a clearance issue.
JK Freak
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 710
Likes: 3
From: Lexington Park, MD
Well no, not necessarily. Depends on how much lift you have and your tire size.
Cycling your suspension to check for clearances is more than just about your tire being stuffed. Addressing your original question, you want to be fully on the bump but not have completely bottomed out your shock.
Personally, I've always done this with the vehicle on jack stands supporting the frame. Then I remove the wheels/tires from whichever axle I'm checking for clearances, and then I remove the springs. It's a pain the butt but then you aren't fighting the springs when you cycle the suspension. Then you can droop the axle, stuff the axle, stuff it one side at a time, etc with a floor jack. Hopefully that makes sense.
Cycling your suspension to check for clearances is more than just about your tire being stuffed. Addressing your original question, you want to be fully on the bump but not have completely bottomed out your shock.
Personally, I've always done this with the vehicle on jack stands supporting the frame. Then I remove the wheels/tires from whichever axle I'm checking for clearances, and then I remove the springs. It's a pain the butt but then you aren't fighting the springs when you cycle the suspension. Then you can droop the axle, stuff the axle, stuff it one side at a time, etc with a floor jack. Hopefully that makes sense.