^^This is definitely the proper way as PsychoCupcake has described.....and it's a pain. It really stinks that the task is kinda time consuming. Coincidentally, I had to check something with my brake lines tonight and I took the lazy man's approach. LOL, the pics look like the tire is just a foot off the ground there....but that's the idea.



The more I've thought about this thread, the more I thought to myself that this is the kinda crap you have to deal with when you do your own work. If you paid someone for an install, they should have at the very least highlighted the issue and suggested a remedy. I mean, ask yourself.....how long did it take you to look at it and think "hummmm, this doesn't add up"? Based on the product you have in that picture, whatever work they did probably wasn't on the cheap side. I think you should take if back to them and at least ask them if that makes sense.

 

So while I would tend to agree with you... about the shop doing right if you are paying for it... man, I see it everyday. Maybe it's where I live but I honestly have never seen a jeep come out of a shop that didn't have something wrong. Control arms upside down, different lengths side to side, track bars backwards, you name it. And just like the OP, just last week I told a friend he was bottoming out his shocks before he was on the bump. Happens all the time. At least the OP realized something was up, but the majority of folks are none the wiser.

Anyhow, I did think of a question. Any chance the OP is running EVO rockstars? I only ask because that is why most people I know are bottoming out the shocks. Relocates the lower shock mount up, but you should then also relocate the upper shock mount as well. As me how I know. Lol.

And while I think cycling your suspension the way I mentioned is the right thing to do first, getting on an RTI ramp or similar is just as important. I've definitely discovered some things that way that I didn't see with the floor jack method.

Be thorough. Might seem like overkill when you do it and people often skip the step of checking clearances. Better to check than be surprised on the trail when you have a major issue.

Okay, off my soap box lol

 

Thx for all your info. It's a 3.5" MC

 

I went back to look at the picture from the orginal post and just re-highlighting this comment, cuz I agree....that brake line doesn't look great. I just bent the passenger side hard line myself so am extra cautious of that now. I would add that I am running MC arms on a 3.5" lift and just looked at mine. That is about the same amount of thread I have showing on my lower arms and they are measured to MC spec FWIW.

 

Me too. On the threads showing. Seems like a lot but I also checked thread engagement and I have plenty. Just a feature of their control arms I guess.

 

I'm late to the party - was this ever solved?

My method to test the rear is to find a ditch you can cross at an angle and leave your front sway bar connected. This will force the rear flex - it can be tough to completely stuff the rear.

 

Kinda forgot about this thread......curious as well if there was a resolution.

 

Haven't messed w the rear bumps yet. Was busy installing the pretty stuff ... grille, roof rack and lights. Hopefully get to it over the holiday weekend.