rear locker advise
The list of combinations between front and rear lockers and peoples prefrence is almost endless. Not unlike asking which beer is best.
Might help narrow things down a bit if you list the following:
Budget, full case lockers require pro install
Type of off roading you do and general road conditions in your area
Vehicle setup (axle gearing, tire size, etc)
Mechanical inclination, good with a wrench you can install a lunchbox locker at home.
I wheel in mud and snow, roads are generally wet but not frozen, have 4:10 gears and 33" tires in a 2 door JK with OME LT suspension.
For my rig setup and wheeling conditions I'm going with Eaton TrueTrac limited slip up front and ARB full case locker in rear.
And PBR is best.
Might help narrow things down a bit if you list the following:
Budget, full case lockers require pro install
Type of off roading you do and general road conditions in your area
Vehicle setup (axle gearing, tire size, etc)
Mechanical inclination, good with a wrench you can install a lunchbox locker at home.
I wheel in mud and snow, roads are generally wet but not frozen, have 4:10 gears and 33" tires in a 2 door JK with OME LT suspension.
For my rig setup and wheeling conditions I'm going with Eaton TrueTrac limited slip up front and ARB full case locker in rear.
And PBR is best.
I would run a jeep without a locker at all before I'd cut corners and install a non-selectable locker in either end of your jeep. This is the one item I feel you should save your money and do it right the first time. Poor locker decisions can be a waste of money or worse. A Limited slip up front can cause you to lose steering on snow/ice when driving normally. I watched a TJ plow in to a snow bank when I was first wheeling. Seeing the wife and kids get out completely terrified and saying they'd never off-road again tought me.
I run ARB's front and rear.
You could consider swapping in Rubicon axles. That would offer a more budget-minded alternative when you consider selling your stuff. The rear Rubicon 44 is about 650 and you get 4.10 gears too. Then you can sell your rear axle for $400 or so and you just go re-geared and a locker for $250. Be sure to get the wiring connectors when you buy your axle.
I sold my rear for $650 and I got $2K for my front, to give you an idea of price range.
I run ARB's front and rear.
You could consider swapping in Rubicon axles. That would offer a more budget-minded alternative when you consider selling your stuff. The rear Rubicon 44 is about 650 and you get 4.10 gears too. Then you can sell your rear axle for $400 or so and you just go re-geared and a locker for $250. Be sure to get the wiring connectors when you buy your axle.
I sold my rear for $650 and I got $2K for my front, to give you an idea of price range.
I would run a jeep without a locker at all before I'd cut corners and install a non-selectable locker in either end of your jeep. This is the one item I feel you should save your money and do it right the first time. Poor locker decisions can be a waste of money or worse. A Limited slip up front can cause you to lose steering on snow/ice when driving normally. I watched a TJ plow in to a snow bank when I was first wheeling. Seeing the wife and kids get out completely terrified and saying they'd never off-road again tought me.
I run ARB's front and rear.
You could consider swapping in Rubicon axles. That would offer a more budget-minded alternative when you consider selling your stuff. The rear Rubicon 44 is about 650 and you get 4.10 gears too. Then you can sell your rear axle for $400 or so and you just go re-geared and a locker for $250. Be sure to get the wiring connectors when you buy your axle.
I sold my rear for $650 and I got $2K for my front, to give you an idea of price range.
I run ARB's front and rear.
You could consider swapping in Rubicon axles. That would offer a more budget-minded alternative when you consider selling your stuff. The rear Rubicon 44 is about 650 and you get 4.10 gears too. Then you can sell your rear axle for $400 or so and you just go re-geared and a locker for $250. Be sure to get the wiring connectors when you buy your axle.
I sold my rear for $650 and I got $2K for my front, to give you an idea of price range.
I just had an Eaton E-locker installed in the rear of my 07' JKU with non Rubi 44 rear. Running open carrier upfront on my new PR44. This weekend is going to be my first trip on the set up. I'll let you know how it goes either Sunday or Monday depending on when I get back. Definitlely run a selectable locker in the rear and from what I've heard from talking to people if you wanted to switch out the front hubs with manual locking hubs you could run a detroit locker up front but if you choose to stick with factory hubs definitely go with a selectable up front as well. I know that Mel from Evo prefers ARB's over E-lockers at least in 44's and bigger but I've heard both sides of the fence.
we ll , I'm running 38's , with 4.88 gears , I'm planning in adding some dana 60 s , so I dont want to spend that much right now , the traction was good before but now its got more mileage and it spins only one front and rear wheel at a time and gets stuck more easy . I just want the rear to lock with out breaking the bank and get the better traction . I 'm considering Yukon Grrizly locker , does anybody has this locker ??
Trending Topics
we ll , I'm running 38's , with 4.88 gears , I'm planning in adding some dana 60 s , so I dont want to spend that much right now , the traction was good before but now its got more mileage and it spins only one front and rear wheel at a time and gets stuck more easy . I just want the rear to lock with out breaking the bank and get the better traction . I 'm considering Yukon Grrizly locker , does anybody has this locker ??
I am not sure that I would drive in ice or light snow with any automatic locker in the rear because they can be a little squirrely, but then my JK is not my daily driver any more.


