Rear shock skids or relocation?
I've been thinking a lot about this solution. Seems to have some inherent problems.
1. By compressing the shock into its travel, isn't it at risk of being over compressed at max suspension compression? A crushed shock can't be good!
2. Since there is more room for the shock to expand, isn't there a risk of the springs popping out of their perch at full droop? That's an ugly trailside repair too.
Problem 1 could be solved by making sure the bump stop hits before the shock is fully compressed. The measurements on mine confirm that the shock would be compressed about 1/2" before the bump stop is hit, assuming the base of the shock is raised 1 1/2" by the kit. Bump stop extensions for sure!
Problem 2 could be solved by making sure the shock reaches maximum extension before all of the tension is off the springs. Again the measurements on mine make it very iffy that the springs might be fully unloaded at full droop. Limiting straps would be necessary - at least for peace of mind.
Why isn't this a problem? Am I missing something?
Edit: forgot about a third option: Shocks with shorter strokes. I personally would rather have the flex afforded by the longer shocks.
1. By compressing the shock into its travel, isn't it at risk of being over compressed at max suspension compression? A crushed shock can't be good!
2. Since there is more room for the shock to expand, isn't there a risk of the springs popping out of their perch at full droop? That's an ugly trailside repair too.
Problem 1 could be solved by making sure the bump stop hits before the shock is fully compressed. The measurements on mine confirm that the shock would be compressed about 1/2" before the bump stop is hit, assuming the base of the shock is raised 1 1/2" by the kit. Bump stop extensions for sure!
Problem 2 could be solved by making sure the shock reaches maximum extension before all of the tension is off the springs. Again the measurements on mine make it very iffy that the springs might be fully unloaded at full droop. Limiting straps would be necessary - at least for peace of mind.
Why isn't this a problem? Am I missing something?
Edit: forgot about a third option: Shocks with shorter strokes. I personally would rather have the flex afforded by the longer shocks.
As for item 1, yes you need to make sure your shocks don't act as the bump stops. You either need shorter shocks, or taller bump stops. (Although keep in mind that most lift kids have longer bump stops)
On item 2, yes this is another concern. You might want to look at Currie's Rear Sprint Retainer. It attaches the spring at the top and bottom mounts to make sure the spring doesn't fall out.
This upgrade is for people prepared to make changes needed for it. It is not for a stock ride.
I going to do this, but only because the lift I'm designing will need to use shock extensions. This will make it so I don't need them AND I get extra ground clearance.
Just thought of another down side - also probably need longer brake line extensions.
I would like the ground clearance, but I'll use the stock location and protect it for now. Here's a shot of my solution. I had to cut out a hole so I could get at the shock adjuster. I like this solution because it protects the adjustment mechanism too. Moving it up would help some but still leave it exposed.
I would like the ground clearance, but I'll use the stock location and protect it for now. Here's a shot of my solution. I had to cut out a hole so I could get at the shock adjuster. I like this solution because it protects the adjustment mechanism too. Moving it up would help some but still leave it exposed.
Just thought of another down side - also probably need longer brake line extensions.
I would like the ground clearance, but I'll use the stock location and protect it for now. Here's a shot of my solution. I had to cut out a hole so I could get at the shock adjuster. I like this solution because it protects the adjustment mechanism too. Moving it up would help some but still leave it exposed.
Attachment 17094
I would like the ground clearance, but I'll use the stock location and protect it for now. Here's a shot of my solution. I had to cut out a hole so I could get at the shock adjuster. I like this solution because it protects the adjustment mechanism too. Moving it up would help some but still leave it exposed.
Attachment 17094
That is a nice skid there! When are you going to start selling them?
I'd like to take credit, but they are the Kilby Trail Boss JK Shock Skids. The custom Shock Adjuster Hole is my only contribution.
Did find out the skids also work well as terrain sampling scoops. (tends to collect mud)
Did find out the skids also work well as terrain sampling scoops. (tends to collect mud)






