So to continue my suspension build - newcomers please note that I use top quality parts and just keep adding. So today I replaced the rear track bar with a Metalcloak adjustable and raised mount bracket on a 2.5" MC lift springs and LCA's. Now the bar is just about horizontal and the ride over bumps is absolutely night and day different. No more ass wobble with rear bump steer which was simply a gentle sway but now it is gone one notices how bad it really was. The front diff is only about 1/8" off centre so I don't want to have a raised or adjustable track bar there as I don't want to play around with drag link flip to keep the two bars parallel and I don't ever plan on more than the 2.5" lift.
Very happy with it now to get rid of those hard riding Bilsteins next. Probably go King adjustables / rebuildables $$$.

 

I had the same experience replacing my rear track bar with the Metalcloak. It's been in my garage for probably 18 months before I got around to putting it on. It was one of those deals where it was on sale more than their usual sales so I jumped. The week before installing it, I put on some fox shocks (rebuildable series) and they were certainly stiffer than my previous 5000x's. I don't know if it was the track bar or my little romp in the rocks, but after that track bar, everything feels better and smoother. Being that I've got a similar build to you, I did replace the front track bar years ago. My axle was a little further off center though.

With shocks- this is a good time to look into Metalcloak front (and rear) shock relo brackets. You move the mounts up front to keep the shock body off of the frame rail for those larger shocks or in the case of the Rancho, keep it from subverting under the frame at full articulation. I've got a brand new set that won't work with my artec shock mounts . The rears you get something similar but it just picks that mount up and you're able to trim out those tacos that hang down and catch rocks. Reinforce them with plate to keep them from going anywhere and you've just bought yourself another couple inches of clearance. It does change the angle on the shock, but I'm not seeing issues with it.

 

There was a two pronged approach for my posting. 1. Was to tell people what I did, let them see the difference in the hopes they follow and 2. so many experienced suspension people have beat their heads against the wall repeating the same story about telling people it is better to buy a little of high quality suspension parts than to purchase a lot of low quality brand. Then build on it and hopefully I reinforced that.
And the one thing I can say is that Metalcloak bracket is some complicated piece of work and it just fell into place. Nice not having to beat it into place and it is well designed. Will retorque and check everything in a week. Next will be the shock brackets and shocks and final decision on removing the front sway bar.

 

I tell people to do this all the time.

 

Yes DM and you were one of the guys I made reference to in my second post. And thanks for the guidance over your time with JKF. I listened!

 

Karl - I had an older set of MC front brackets prior to being redesigned. When I added new 1/4" Artec brackets I couldn't outboard them enough with C-gussets in place on the old rubi axle, so I had to continue using the MC brackets. I had to cut one side and then simple weld crap up, but they still worked flawlessly. I wouldn't say buy em in your situation, but since you have those there's no harm cutting a side and then just welding them em place for a relocation.

(the reason I did new Artec brackets is cuz bent the factory one, which I believe is what you did as well. I never had any issues with my welded MC situation up till I sold that axle.....and it got some good use).

 

PM me, I've got a new, in box set that I can have out your way for a cheaper price than buying new.

Correct- mine bent and eventually tore. But good note on the clipping the old style bracket (used set I've got) and adding them to the Artec- this is certainly a possibility and would help keep the new shocks off the frame without adding more bumps.

 

UPDATE: It's been a week so here are my findings so far -
1. the ass end does not wobble when going over angled ruts in the roads, bridge crossings etc it is very much planted now and no affect on the front steering from prior when ass wobble caused me to do steering inputs.
2. Previously there was bad understeer followed by small movement of steering wheel caused pretty good oversteer (ie twitchy). It now has a nice steady amount of slight understeer which is desirable for handling on the highway.
3. With item 2 it now goes around most corners with steering wheel held in same position which required constant inputs and corrections before.
4. Rear end rides nicer over the bumps now and does not feel so stiff - here was me thinking it was shocks.
Overall this has to be one of the neatest upgrades I have done and makes me wonder if even a stock Jeep could benefit from a rear track bar raise and be adjustable for diff centering. I don't believe for 1 minute that the factory gets the diff centered with those fixed components. I will measure on the son's unit and see what it is like.

 

I think the only Metalcloak components still on mine are their track bars. I started out all MC, and just kinda outgrew most of it.

 

Did you get rid of the MC control arms to go long arm? If so, did you still use the duroflex joints?