I simply took a tie-strap (? - don't know the english word for it, it's the kind of strap you tighten things on your roofrack with...), and fastened one end on the left side of the axle (rear view) and the other on the right side of the frame, and tightened until measurements were identical.

 

I know i am asking too much but do you have a pic by any chance? What measurements do i have to follow?

 

Sorry, no pics. But I just measured from the outside of the frame - inside of tire (on the same location both sides), and made sure the measurements were identical. Not a very scientific way to do it, but I guess it's ok - at least for now...

 

I've now been in contact with RE. They claim that there SHOULD be an misalignment of up to 3/4"on the rear axle, due to compression......and that there's always an misalignment on stock vehicles as well, but it shows more with their kit.

Well, I'm still quite confident in them, but the solution I did has worked out extremely well. No vibrations whatsoever from the rear, and no rubbing. And I have 1 1/2" spacers and 5 backsapcing on the wheels, so rubbing is no issue for me. (Which, by the way, it was before adding the spacers and adjusting the alignment.)

RE says, even if they come up with an adjustable rear track bar, they'd still instruct to have it misaligned.

I'd like to know if anyone else having the RE LA has any input on this?

To sum it up: The future will tell...

 

Why only the RE guys opinions... of course I'd like to know from all of you out there with different liftkits, do you have your rear axle aligned or misaligned afterwards?

An it would also bo good to know if someone with original setup have it aligned or misaligned...

 

I'm not buying that at all. When you are at you normal ride height going down a road it should be centered so you don't scrub you tires and accelerate wear. If they said an 1/8 I could buy that; but not 3/4". Now if it deflected 3/4" to the side while off-road and articulating that would be something else.

 

I have a 3.5" lift from Rustys with adjustable track bars. I ended up lengthening the front .500 in order to center and the rear was .350 to get centered up.

.750 seems like a lot.

To 100% honest with you: if you ever plan on going off road or even jumping an occasional curb, dump the brackets and get bars that are adjustable. The Manufacture does not matter, just get a decent set and you will be good to go.

The track bar drop brackets are just a bad idea and are weak. They give the rear end and front end way to much mechanical advantage over the mounting point of the track bar to the frame. That is why you want the bar closer to the frame.