Regearing
Usually, the shop you use will have a preferred brand, or rather a brand they have the most accessible access to. It's almost always best to let them purchase the parts (assuming you are not doing this yourself). I've always gone with Yukon gears, but I'm not sure there is some big quality difference between everything......the quality of the labor is way more important than the gears IMO. Front seals will be replaced as part of that labor and master install kit. If ball joints were anywhere close to needing to be replaced, that would be a good time while the shafts were out (only additional labor would be removing the knuckles and of course pressing out/in the BJs).
RickLB , the last time I set up gears I went with REVOLUTION GEARS which uses a special coating on the gear set which allows you to drive normally , accelerate normally and otherwise not have to pay attention to the gear break in period. After 100 miles you must change out the gear oil but is a small price to pay for an easier break in period.
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RickLB when doing a R&P change I assume you are changing the bearings out also. One other item you might consider is the crush sleeve eliminator kit. I have encountered failure of the crush sleeve to maintain its torque against the pinion and resulted in chipped ring gear teeth. The eliminator kit is simply a solid peel shim that is installed in the place of the crush sleeve, once torqued to spec. does not come loose. The crush sleeve is a one and done, so if you do not get the eliminator kit you will still need a new crush sleeve. Oh yeah, all my experience has been with the rear dana 44 never had an issue with dana 30 front axle losing torque against the pinion gear.







