Rebar-7

Some shops are funny about installing parts that customer bought some where else.Just my opinion. I think it's better to buy the parts thru the shop that's going to do install. That way warrenty on everything stays in the same circle ( parts vender to shop to you )

Mbogan

I just sent a PM

Mbogan

Understood. I did get a great deal from 4ws.com which was better than most I have investigated. In hind sight I would have negotiated everything at once. Otherwise, the manufacturer will still warranty their own product, and any decent shop that is comfortable with the product should still warranty their workmanship.

Smashboogie 4x4

PM answered. Let us know what you think.

Rebar-7

Yea, roc on man. ,

Sahara Lee

So, I decided to regear on my own. I've got most of the tools: 21 gallon air compressor, impact wrench, all other needed wrenches, 250 FTLB torque wrench, 60 INLB torque wrench, caliper, micrometer, dial indicator with magnetic base, bearing race and seal setters, an assortment of pullers, access to a hydraulic press, welding machine... anything I'm missing?

While I'm taking the diffs apart I started wondering what else might need redoing on my 2010 55k mile Jeep Unlimited Sahara (auto) besides the gears. Here's what I came up with so far:
- While the gears are out why not put in lockers/LSD. I decided on Truetracs. (All bearings will be replaced too. Pinion seal goes without saying.)
- Those inner seals up front require the carrier to be out to replace. Better take care of them now. (Oh, and don't forget those plastic axle guides.)
- While the axles are out anyway better replace the U-joints.
- And those ball joints have got to be worn by now. (need to borrow a ball joint tool)
- Since the ball joints will be out, I can weld on gussets.

Only one thing left to consider: drive shaft. I have a 4" Rancho Sport Lift and that front CV joint angle is pretty severe. Should I change out the front drive shaft to a double Cardan? Maybe? If I do I want to replace the differential yoke BEFORE I do the crush sleeve pinion torque thingy. Otherwise, I might have to do the crush sleeve again. (Always use a fresh crush sleeve.)

So that's my dilemma. I may never stop buying parts long enough to get the job done.

Enjoy your adventures.

JKred

Those are two very good refrences for a first timer. I would also suggest reading Pirat4x4's D60 regear article. While not exactly the same as our JK axles, it's a great read and a great source of tech.

But, to the OP, he's right. If after reading those thread/articles, you still feel lost or hesitant, it might be worth paying someone... for instance...

Smashboogie summed it up perfectly. Sometimes you get lucky, but it takes a lot of trys (usually) to get an acceptable pattern. You NEED the right tools, you can't really work around that. Beyond that, its just patience, understanding, and the ability to read and duplicate a spec.

My first regear took me 16 hours total for one axle, including running the plumbing for my ARB, but I was at a disadvantage with no starting measurements due to an empty housing... I've got it down to about 4 hours an axle now when out of the vehicle. It still not a quick process.

You look to be all set with tools. Your primary "special" tools you need are:
Ft-lb torque wrench (up to 100 ft-lb is fine)
in-lb torque wrench (beam or dial type, not click, 50-60 in lb max)
Dial indicator on magnetic base (0-1" in 0.001 increments is fine, for reading backlash)
Calipers or Micrometers (for measuring shims)
Big pipe wrench and 3/4" breaker bar (for holding the yoke and setting the crush sleeve, you will break a 1/2" bar)

Do not use an impact on the crush sleeve/pinion nut. You run a high risk of overshooting target preload/running torque. You can go from 5 in-lb to 30 in-lb running torque in a quarter turn of the pinion nut.

Also, do yourself a favor and make yourself some "setup" pinoin bearings, as you will likely have to pull the inner pinon bearing multiple times to change the pinion shim. They should be a tight hand press fit or slip fit.... too loose and they wont do you any good.

I would change your drive shaft, and pinion yoke at that time if you're going to do it, BUT, you can safely re set the new yoke after install. Just remeber to use a new nut as they are one time use.