Replacing spark plugs...just a dream?
What is the secret to replacing spark plugs on the passenger side of engine block?
I have done a search on the subject and the threads I found centered around reasons for and against changing them before the recommendation in the owners manual. What I can't find is how in the wide, wide, world of sports you could ever get to the plugs on the passenger side of the engine block, especially a lifted JK.
First off there appears to be a wall between the battery tray and the block. Next there is what I think is a radiator return hose running almost on top of the plugs. Add a coupla inches of lift and I'm in over my ski's.
Has anyone successfully replaced them and lived to tell about it? Maybe there is an obvious solution, which is why I didn't figure it out...any ideas?
I have done a search on the subject and the threads I found centered around reasons for and against changing them before the recommendation in the owners manual. What I can't find is how in the wide, wide, world of sports you could ever get to the plugs on the passenger side of the engine block, especially a lifted JK.
First off there appears to be a wall between the battery tray and the block. Next there is what I think is a radiator return hose running almost on top of the plugs. Add a coupla inches of lift and I'm in over my ski's.Has anyone successfully replaced them and lived to tell about it? Maybe there is an obvious solution, which is why I didn't figure it out...any ideas?
I changed mine when I did my headers
I had the battery box out so it was a breeze. I think you can get at them if you take the fender and liner out.
I'll find out this weekend when I take the fender off to try and retighten my headers
I had the battery box out so it was a breeze. I think you can get at them if you take the fender and liner out.
I'll find out this weekend when I take the fender off to try and retighten my headers
My tip on changing the plugs is to place the hood all the way back on the windshield so you can get in there....made it a lot easier for me. Also, passenger rear is the worst, yet drivers side is a breeze. I thought it was easiest to pull the plug wire support bracket and vacuum line support bracket off the valve cover studs - they just slide off - gave more access to the rear plug and took 1 min to remove and replace. I did use a torque wrench at 15lbs to prevent overtightening.
Not too hard, swivels and extensions help.
Not too hard, swivels and extensions help.
Trending Topics
In my case, I got the smoother idle AND improved throttle response - particularly in the acceleration band of up to about 45 to 50 mph. YMMV.

Not bad in my opinion for a under $40 investment.
... I can open hoods all day.



