RicoBlaster

I've done a bit of searching over the last several days, but there are some things that I haven't found...so here we go.

My initial plans revolve around a two-door Rubicon with a 6-speed:
- Rusty's 3.25" lift (four shocks, four springs, F&R track bars)
- Pro Comp 8069 16x8 wheels (4" BS, -11mm offset)
- 37x12.50x16 Super Swamper SSRs

Adjustable control arms are on the horizon, but I only get in a few wheeling trips per year, so I'm not going to be flexing it out too often without the new CAs.

I'm also thinking of some Xenon flatties, but they are going to be down the road a little bit.

Questions:
- Will I need extended brake lines (front and rear)? I didn't with the TJ, but....
- Will I need extended front and rear sway bar links? I thought I read that the rears can go on the front, but I'd need to buy extended rears. I removed both bars on the TJ...
- Will I need some type of T-case drop kit or MML? I did with the TJ...
- Will the Rusty's kit be enough for those tires? I never found a post that said whether or not they would fit at full flex. I'm not opposed to spacers or BL if needed, but prefer not to if not needed. I don't care if the tires rub the flares, but rear sheet metal would be bad.
- Will those tires on those particular wheels fit under the factory flares? In Pennsylvania, the tread cannot stick out past the flares...at all. It shouldn't rub on the control arms, either. Spacers are out of the question...1/4" is the max allowed in PA.


I'm feeling a bit like Luke Skywalker on Degoba...I have to unlearn everything that I have learned.

Thanks a ton in advance for your help!

BaltChief

a few questions...

2dr? 4 dr? Rubi?

robin

read the post, two door, that's the first thing he said

BaltChief

- yes you will want new brake lines.

- sway bar links, if you have a Rubi then get extended lenthgs for the rear and move the rears up front. If it is not a rubi, get extended links for the rear and get discos for the front.

- T-case drop and MML are not needed on the JK

- you will most likely need a BL for those tires if you do any serious flexing offroad.

- backspacing of your wheels will determine hpw much will stick out of the flares. I have 3.75 backspacing and 12" wide tires mine stick out about 1/2".

- you will want to regear with 37's....to like 5.88's

- you also may need to look into drive shafts, especially if you have an automatic.

- and if you run 37's I would suggest ORE's C brackets.....the JK has week C's and will bend with the extra weight of 37's.

BaltChief

FYI...the original post was edited at 10:18....I made my post at 10:10.....but thanks for trying to criticize someone rather than help the poster with his question.

RicoBlaster

Thanks for the replies!

For clarification, I only edited the post to add the legality of spacers in PA and the mention of the six-speed tranny.

BaltChief

It's cool, I missed the 2dr part, my bad. But I won't critisize someone else for missing part of a post.

jtphoto JK

Re: Wheels and tires.
I am running 16x8 wheels w/4.5 BS and 315/75R-16 (35x12.50) tires and my tires stick out of the wheel wells about an inch.
My suggestion: If you are going to run 37x12.50 you are going to need a minimum 4" lift and the wider Bushwacker pocket flares to keep the wheels inside. Not sure if the flat flares will be wide enough to cover the tires but will allow more room for flex....

JKBully

Get the front brake lines. Better safe than sorry!

With that amount of lift, rear links will be all that is needed, and you move the stockers to the front.

No T-case drop, and no MML needed!

With 37's on a 3.25" lift, I doubt you will get much flex at all before rubbing occurs! You can use a rubber mallet and hammer the pinch seams front and rear, if necessary to get those out of the way for clearance. BDS 2" BL would be recommended for clearance, but a lot of guys on here don't like the way they look. I think they are cool! The BDS 2" BL comes with the rear bumper relocation bracket to get rid of the big gap out back!

I feel your pain on the tires sticking out issue! Same crappy a$$ laws here in NJ. The solution: Keep your stock wheels and tires and put them on to take it in for inspection! Get your sticker, and hurry home looking like you have go-kart wheels and put the others back on before any of your buddies see you and start giving you a hard time about the dinky tires!

RicoBlaster

Thanks a ton, everyone!

I was suspicious about the lift doing what I needed, so I figured I should ask. I did see some posts where people were noticing an initial gain of 4" with the Rusty's kit and some never went down, while some saw up to a 1/2" drop.

I guess I'll be shopping for flares sooner than I thought. Xenon flatties are available 1.5" wider or 1.5" shorter so I should be ok with the wider ones.

I'm already a pro with the "switch tires before inspection" routine. I'm also a pro at the "getting pulled over by The Man for tires sticking out" routine. D'oh!