Wow...I don't even know what to say about these post explaining how a SC will give you better gas milage then stock vehicles based on gas pedal position and or staying out of boost. Your forgetting that your ECU fuel and timing tables are all altered. TPS is not comparable anymore. Bleh I give up lol. You're right Supercharging is a great way to save on gas over a OEM tuned motor by sorta, kinda, magically using your supercharger in a certain way and making more power with less fuel. I can't wait until car manufacturers catch on to this great secret and put SC on all their most fuel effecient cars

 

I just installed mine. Has to be fine tuned. No regrets here!!!

 

So, i'm following Along with great interest and i'm curious .... Does the predator not have a datalogging function? I use a Cobb tuner on my GTR and when I need tweaks, i'm able to set recording parameters and then I email the run file to my tuner. It doesn't sound like you are able to do that? If thats the case, why aren't any of you doing dyno sessions to nail down your afr's etc?

 

You have an excellent perspective - and your thought process is correct. The thing your missing is at idle and cruise the blower does not cost you crank HP and even if it did it would be minimal. However it is delivering air volume which the engine would normally have to suck in on its own. Since this is a narrow angel V6, the programmers at Mopar simply threw a bunch of fuel and timing at it making it really poor on MPG and really lousy throttle response, we simply took advantage of that and the freshly provided air and presto better tipped in cruise MPG... As soon as you lay into it you lose some, but keep in mind at full boost operation this compressor only costs 7-crank HP to deliver 100 rear wheel HP..

Lastly - with respect to your turbo quote - The turbo requires more fuel to keep the EGT down and creates an exhaust restriction or back pressure, which causes heat - In this Jeeps case and given the complexity of the environment we would never run a turbo... Consider how often these vehicles are driven 2000 miles from home to go 100 miles into the middle of nowhere and back again.. And consider they will go through many heat cycles during that time, including being dipped in and out of water... The TC will likely wear and burn up way before the Vortech... Which in our case has already gone over 130k in other platforms


The supplied tune is always in the tool - your welcome to contact ripptuning@gmail.com and bring to their attention the issue to help you rule it out.


Yes - it does data log and yes clients do datalog at the calibrators request... However most of the issues in this thread have been resolved and where based on a bad batch of MAP sensors and/or end user vehicle issues or a combo thereof... If there are any other open cases simply contact ripptuning@gmail.com and we are always willing to help to the best of our ability.

BTW - great conversation in this thread - by way of technical data its very rich (the title sucks), but the the thread shows an evolution and progress as a group that we haven't seen in other forums, we are proud to be part of it.

RIPPTECH

 

I will try this tonight. I did talk to Ross yesterday and we discussed a couple ideas. I put the initial SC/Header tune back on last night and the check engne light went away. I am goign to reload the 3.3 tune back on to the tuner just in case I did it wrong the first time and try it again using you method of DC the battery cable.

I did finally experience the surge last night. I had my cruize set a 70mph and was climbing a fairly steep grade. I live in centeral Illinois so there aren't to many of those but I and going to crank the blow off valve down one more thread.

 

Thanks for the clarification, as to the nature of the issues!

 

I have written and email to Ripp providing all this information but since it is Friday night I don't know if they will get back with me until Monday.

I will throw this out there to you experts and see what you think while I wait there reply.

I installed the SC Saturday. I drove it a few days with the stock SC/Header tune that comes with the tuner in the SC kit. It actaully ran pretty good with that tune but I could feel a little lag and 2100rpms and the JK would surge with cruize engaged at 70mph but only going up a failry steep grade.

I had to gather the BARO reading and send my stock tune to Ripp with the BARO reading and the other information they require. I soon recieved the 3.3 tune.

I installed it and almost immediately had a check engine light. Ran the diagnostic from the tuner and pulled a P0300 & P0301 code. Those state they are a random misfire and cylinder #1 misfire code.

I took the 3.3 tune off the JK and check engine light gone and did not come back.

I could go out and buy a new spark plug, change the wires, but why would I only get that code with the 3.3 tune if they were bad?

Any ideas???

 

Did the check engine light merely illuminate, or did it start to flash? I found some info indicating that the only time it flashes (approx once per second) is during catalyst damaging misfire events - i.e., to warn you to back off the gas due to misfire detections as damage to the catalyst would result if you continued. This would be accompanied by a P0300, or P0301 . . . P0306 depending on the cylinder misfiring.

The two types of misfire detection diagnostic algorithms - "catalyst damaging" and "emission impacting", will both set the same DTCs (e.g., P0300 if greater than 1 cylinder is detected as misfiring; or say P0301 if just cyl 1 is detected, etc). Only when the rate of misfire is currently so high that catalyst damage is likely occurring (e.g. raw fuel is passed to hot cat, along with O2) will the MIL also Flash - that is when you should worry.

Sounds like both you and bubba own JKs that are "allergic" to tune 3.3 and its secret sauce (as bubba calls it).

Do you have a 3.2 tune? If not, what are you running now?

 

It is a solid engine light. I'm not sure what they call the tune that comes on the tuner supplied with the SC kit. I'm calling it the stock SC/Header tune. The engine light goes away on that tune. It is not numbered like the tune which was emailed me.

 

I checked the right side when I did the SC install. I'm trying to think. #1 plug is right front, correct? That is the bolt you replace for the SC bracket. I will check that again. And I will pull that plug tomorrow. Thanks.

I had cleared the code yesterday and drove it today without the code coming back.