Originally Posted by karls (Post 3597919)

Have you tried swapping the springs left to right in the rear and seeing if the problem is persistent? You should have longer links to go in the rear albeit I ran stock rear links for a 2.5" lift.

Sent from my DROID4

Originally Posted by Flywrangler (Post 3599417)

What's the point of the mfg having a tech thread if they don't respond to it? Just wondering.

Originally Posted by HappyJK (Post 3600411)

I am looking for a lift for my new Jeep. I guess I won't be looking at RK products.

Originally Posted by BuckLisa (Post 3600423)

They answer on the JKO forums all the time.

Originally Posted by SabrToothSqrl (Post 3600541)

someone email them a link to this thread.

maybe they forgot...

Originally Posted by jnabird333 (Post 3600548)

This would only work if they answered PMs or emails... Which they don't. (Or at least didn't/haven't).

Their lack or response to their own thread that was supposed to help with tech issues speaks volumes. I have been on the fence to a RK or MC lift. With the unanswered questions on RK. My decision is clear.

Originally Posted by RiverCityOffroad (Post 3601750)

Guys...seriously. Lol

They moved to a new larger facility in January. Jeremy is at Northridge's open house this weekend and Justin has been running ragged trying to handle every forum, tech phone call, and order status updates.

If you call them with your questions they will answer them. It can take much longer to try to type a response than a 3 minute phone call.

If you keep putting them on blast there's not much incentive to come back. These companies in our industry aren't run by 1000s of people. They are usually small, passionate groups of people who are doing everything they can to keep up.

Give them some slack or if you have an extremely pressing issue call them.

It begins to look like we are just complaining to complain in the forum world sometimes. Let's remember that we are all human.

:beer:

Marcus

Originally Posted by kegnut (Post 3601522)

Here's a crazy idea. Pick up the phone, call, and talk to a real human being. You wouldn't believe how effective this is.

Originally Posted by BuckLisa (Post 3549069)

Another member on here has his RK drag link hitting the track bar bolt on your drag link flip kits track bar bolt. I had the same , but I added washers to the steering stops to prevent it. My RK lower control arms are at their shortest length at a 4.5 inch lift and my upper RK's are dialed in for a perfect pinion angle for my DC driveshaft. Is there anything else we can do to prevent the contact?

Attachment 456226

Originally Posted by Paws (Post 3549173)

Just now seeing this thread. This is my pic of the 3.5 max travel. All adjusted to what RK recommended. Rides awesome and kit is stout. Just noticed today during an inspection this was happening. Was going to call tomorrow since its after hours. Not a huge deal and I might need to run washers too. Just wanted your thoughts.

Originally Posted by nickcoleman (Post 3549521)

Can't decide what to do. I want to replace my spacer lift with a coil lift. I have a Warn Elite bumper and M8000 winch which dropped the front about an 1". The spacers are 2.5" front and 1" rear which brought the JK to level. This is on a 2dr with softtop.

What I'd really like is about 1/2" drop/rake in the front -- so when I load a 200-300 lbs of camping gear in the back it stays level.

When I look at the RK springs on JKs with a heavy front bumper/winch, it appears like the upper part of the coil is almost totally compressed. Doesn't that negate the purpose of a dual rate coil? So, why not just go with a normal coil like Teraflex/OME? (Asking this for info, not to be critical of RK.)

Originally Posted by rob_p (Post 3549605)

I have a 2011 JKU Rubicon, which apart from a couple of skids is basically stock and I'm looking at your 3.5 Flex System and 15" MB TKO wheels with 35" MT/Rs.

Anything to watch out for with this combination?

Originally Posted by JustTryingToLive (Post 3549794)

I just bought a 2.5 max travel kit, and i was wondering if i need to extend the axle breather hoses? thanks for the help guy, looking forward to getting the lift on in about 2 weeks

Originally Posted by Slupe (Post 3552678)

2012 JKUR and a similar problem. A little more clearance but track bar paint is scuffed from contact with exhaust. Ideas?

Originally Posted by Maertz (Post 3575085)

Do you guys sell just the coil spring offset perches thats included in your 3" rear stretch? Also how far offset is it im thinking it would almost have to be 4" as they seem off just being lifted. I doubt there that big though?

Originally Posted by nr6h (Post 3575893)

RK, i'll be installing a 2.5 X-Factor on a 2 door with stock bumpers so I' ll yield about 3.5 to 4 in of lift soulg I follow the CA setting for 3.5 or stick with the 2.5 setting Thanks

Originally Posted by SabrToothSqrl (Post 3576794)

We may need more than one thread!

I have a 2012 Rubicon on a BDS lift. I believe it's 3". I know this because I'm fitting 35s nicely, and because the Fox Shox stickers say "BSD" on them.

Anyway; that's the background. That and those stupid brake line relocation brackets. (I have longer brake lines on order, and will be fixing it right shortly).

Also, I had a 5.5 Longarm kit on my last TJ from RK, and it was AWESOME. It worked well on road, and off road, it was CRAZY how much it would flex. It needed retainer springs up front, and limiting straps all around! I rarely needed my lockers, as it's flex meant it was always planted.

So, my question;

I LOVE the way my BDS kit rides ON-ROAD. But from what I can tell, I have all stock control arms. The track bars also look stock and look to be on brackets.

I'm not looking to change the height, (all spring lift, no spacers). I'm also no looking to change the ride (the shocks seem to work very well).

I AM looking for some more flex and to ditch the stock control arms.

Is there any reason I can't build this as I go? For example, install 2 new lower front control arms from RK, then install 2 rear lower, then install 2 front upper, etc?

Is it not ideal to mix makes? If it was my Jeep, I'd have gone strait to RK, but I bought the jeep like this, and the dealer said they'd give me the full 3/36 warranty on everything... so... there's that lol.

anyway, I love the videos, love the products, and love the color PDF installs. Keep it coming! the more I know about your products before I buy, the more likely I am to BUY.

Originally Posted by Napalm90 (Post 3580224)

Nother question. I am looking at getting one of your 3.5 systems. What shocks would you recommend I pruchase, or are the emulsion shocks you sell pretty much perfect for the lift? Thank you!!!!

Originally Posted by mendiola21 (Post 3580293)

I run my jku on 3.5max travel on Fox piggybacksfactory series sitting on 35 inch toyo's aired down to 28 psi. But everything seems to be really rough like every bump I hit is unbearable and it sounds like a clicking sound coming from either the upper shock mount or spring perch area everytime I hit a bump

I used to run a teraflex 2.5 coils lift and changed it out for those exact reasons above and some other limitations.

I have checked all the torque specs on track bars and control arms and they are good. Also had the jeep aligned and was actually told I was barely off.

Any recommendations?

Originally Posted by AaronJK (Post 3580383)

Just went out and checked mine. Shop had it in wrong. So i fixed it. Always check it afterward so you know it's done right. That is unless this is wrong lol. :rock:

Sent using my SuperSmartThinky Phone

Originally Posted by zero_traction69 (Post 3580948)

Thought I would ask sorta a dumb question. On the rear track bar I have it set to length 39 3/4. 3.5 dual sport life. My question is that length doesn't seam to work for me. I had to go about an inch longer is this a common thing? I know those are starting measurement in your instruction, but what would cause it to change that much? Control arms are to lenght just check everything again.

Originally Posted by Terry Hesticles (Post 3581607)

1. I have a 2.5" stock mod + LCAs on my 2013 JKU and my springs are all oriented the right way (rear springs have the part# sticker facing back) and my right rear dips a little, maybe half an inch. Any other tricks to get this to even out? I have a quarter of a tank of gas and it's still dipping. I have no other bolt ons besides my full size spare (33 tire on 15 aluminum wheel mounted on stock carrier).

2. The instructions state to remove the rear sway bar links when installing the lift, but that's it. Should these be reconnected? I reconnected mine afterwards. I know some kits require moving stock front to back or vise versa, but my kit has the disconnects up front, so if it's the latter then I'll pass.

Is #2 possibly the cause for #1?

Originally Posted by Archie251 (Post 3585638)

Hey RK guys. I'm trying to decide on which RK lift. I'm pretty new to all this so excuse me if I ask something lame.

I have a 2009 Rubicon 4dr and I'll be running 35 inch tires. I don't have a winch and bumpers yet but plan to do both, including tire carrier and possibly a roof rack, in the near future. It will be not only a daily driver but something I work out of 3-4 hours per day (not all driving) so on road and in town drivability is really important but I want to be able to four wheel some pretty gnarly (I know that's subjective) stuff too.

I'm looking at either the 2.5 max travel or the 3.5 flex. Both appear to consist of the same components (obviously sized differently) so what difference is there other than height? Am I going to get more articulation with a max travel or is it only a max travel as compared to the 2.5 flex? I'm not really concerned with the look as both will look cool enough for me but I do want the best performing system.

Thanks
Archie