Rock Krawler Suspension Open Tech Line for JK Forum Members
 

Guys

We know alot of people have questions when it comes to building their JK, their setups etc. We are opening an official tech thread for everyone. Even if it is not our products, we are here to help!

Feel free to post up your questions! We will try to check this thread once a day. We are extremely busy!

Please keep the posting to technical setup questions and things of that nature! We want this thread to be useful to everyone!

RK

Awesome!!! I am thinking on purchasing you 3.5 X factor lift. I know a lot of lifts give more or less lift than the amount stated. Was wondering how much lift this kit would give on a 4dr, front and back.

I have a rather stupid question....I had one of the rear sway bar bolts snap on me....the bolts supplied with the X-Factor kit to move sway bar back 1" (I torqued too tight). So I am looking for a replacemtn bolt but can't find anyone who carries them. Luckily, where I drilled the hole and where the snapped bolt is won't interfere with me fixing this since I originally moved the sway bar back further than the instructions said :blush:. My goal is to move it to where is is supposed to be per the instructions and not be a lazy a** this time. Any ideas where I can buy one single bolt??

Question
 

I just ordered the 2.5 Stock Mod kit for my 2012 JKU and I wanted to know if I will need to extend the brake lines or if I will need to do anything with the rear tail pipe? I thought I read that it may need some modification on the 2012 and newer but that may just be for the 3.5 kit.

Thanks for your help :clap:

The 3.5 in flex seems to have all the same components as the 2.5in max except the spring size. They price out the same too. Is there any other differences?

Sent from my bunker deep in enemy territory

Why was my trackbar bolt hitting/gouging my right rear bumpstop bracket after installing the 2.5 X Factor 2.5 on my JK? I had to reverse it and shave the bolt head down. Seems like a weird design issue. Anything we could have done to prevent that?

Since I've ordered the 2.5 Flex kit and i'm currently waiting for it to arrive i'll be following this thread. I can't wait till it arrives.

Dan

Have the 2.5 Flex kit on my 2dr. The front is currently about an inch higher than the rear(stock bumper, no winch). The lift has been on for about a month. should i expect it to settle any? Would the rear spring correcttion wedges do anything for me?

I have the same kit on my 2dr Rubicon. I installed it over the weekend. It looks like I am having the same issue. I was hoping that it just needed to settle some.

A buddy of mine runs it on his 2 door with same results. He's actually taller with a 2.5" lift than my JKU on a 3.5" lift. The issue is the front progressive coils have zero weight to compress the first 3 wraps or so. Throw on a heavy front bumper and that will take care of your reverse rake. They make the coils like this so you don't get sagging with heavy bumpers. Unfortunately when you aren't running them, you get the results you are seeing. It's more pronounced with the 2 doors since its a lighter vehicle as well.

I am going to be ordering the 2.5 stock mod with bilstine 5100, extended break lines, bump stops and exhaust spacer. I have a ' 12 JKU Sport and will be running stock wheels and tires, do I need any thing else. Thanks for your help.

Sent from my MB855 using JK-Forum

I have a Warn stubby bumper with a winch on the front of mine. I guess it just doesn't weigh enough. I agree with the amount of lift though. I gained close to 4" of lift with the max travel lift.

Rock Krawler 3.5 x factor
 

I recently ordered a 3.5 x factor and will be returning from deployment in about a month to install it. I'm trying to use this time to figure out the "little secrets" for this lift. Are there any special tools or anything that anybody would suggest to make it easier? Any tips? Tricks?

Thanks

Taylor

Here are my front coils with jeep just sitting. I have rugged ridge stubby and xrc10 winch with synth rope. Notice the top wraps? Rock Krawler claims this is normal. My jeep sits level for the record.

Will be buying your 2.5 stock mod system with rk front lowers and rear uppers. I have a rubi and would like to have a fix'd length sway bar links.( I've noticed the adjustable one don't seem to hold up to great at full flex)Could you tell me the fix"d sizes or possibly sizes for the front and rears or tell me another route, I don't wanna loose the e-disco.

That is about what mine look like too. I have a little gap between the 2nd & 3rd wrap of the coil. No more than a 1/4".

We really need coils specific to the 2-door. Annoying to have the front higher too.

My top coils are spaced out. 2 door with only a RR XHD. Jeeps sits pretty level.

Our 3.5" kits on a 4 door will gain you about 4" in the front and 3" in the rear to level out the stance of the jeep. The kits are based around a fully equipped jeep so if it is bone stock other then the lift you may net a little more height then those numbers.

RK

It sounds like your looking for one of the 3/8" x 1" long self taping bolts that we supply for the relocation of the sway bar. You should be able to find one at a local hardware store pretty easily! If not we can always ship you out one, but the first option will be quicker and cheaper we would assume.

RK

The 2 kits like you stated are the same components, the only difference is going to be the coils and the the length of the threaded center pins in the sway bar links. This helps keep our kits as upgradeable as they are!

RK

With your factory arms you will find that they are still going to bind up before your brake lines become taunt. The 2012+ may require you to disconnect the brake line bracket from the axle because of the new routing compared to years past. The stainless steel extended lines are not a bad upgrade if your ever planing on more components in the future that will add to your articulation. As far as the tail pipe there is nothing that needs to be done. What you might be referring to is the crossover pipe on the new 3.6L Pentastar motor. You will want to look into an exhaust spacer or an aftermarket front driveshaft to clearance that pipe when you lift them.

RK

This is great to see! Thanks Rock Krawler for helping to make this community even better! :thumbsup:

There are a few things that can cause an issue like that. First we would double check the pinion angle in the rear, if that is off it can pitch the bump stops at more of an angle and possibly cause contact. Also make sure the bump stops if they are ours angle forward not to the rear. if you want take a picture of the pinion angle and one of the bump stops and post them up we might catch something thats out of whack.

RK

How is the rear on your JK loaded? Spare tire, bumper, nothing? It honestly could very well be a loading condition.

RK

Check our reply to Jibba and let us know!

RK

This can absolutely be the case! Thanks for chiming in.

RK

It sounds like you have pretty much all your bases covered! Good luck with the build.

RK

Nothing other the a few big wrenches! 1 1/2" for the jam nuts on the lower arms and a 1 5/16" for the uppers and track bars! If you have any questions during the install feel free to give the shop a call!

RK

We do not offer a fixed length for the links just because every vehicle can sit a little differently and a fixed length link may work fine for one vehicle but not the next. Not sure where the idea of our heim jointed sway bar link not holding up to the articulation of a rubicon came from be we an assure you there is no issue with running that style setup on a rubi or non-rubi. You will not lose your e-disco feature with our heim jointed links, you will notice that we do recommend that if you are going to articulate the jeep to its full potential that you disconnect manually. You have the potential for so much more droop with our kits that you can have the sway bar and link become in line with each other on the drooping side and if it pops to the front when returning to ride height instead of the way it originally came from then you will bend the link's center pin. That is why in situations like that we recommend that you manually disconnect.

RK

Thanks, We're happy to be a part of it!

RK

The rear has a stock bumper. It does have a 35" Trail Grappler which is heavy, but so does most other lifted Jeeps. So the only way to level it out is to load up the front end?

Would the spring correction wedges do anything for me? Should i consider a spacer in the rear?

thanks for the reply!

I have an aftermarket rear bumper w/ tire carrier with my spare 33" MT MTZ mounted. I know I have over 100 lbs. on the rear.

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Here is a picture. To me it looks like it sits higher in the front. Could be my eyes playing tricks on me.

Rock Krawler Tech Line
 

Subscribed :thumbsup: I have a 2.5 Max Travel System with RK Adjustable Rear Track Bar and Bilstein 5100 shocks. Love It! No Problems!

Ok RK, I don't have one of you complete lift kits so don't get mad at me but I'm slowly coming over to your dark side. Sorry for the bad night shots, I took these at 4am while at work but his setup I have right now is originally a 2.5" tf kit but I ditched the front coils for the 2.5 rk coils and recommended bilsteins.

What's the length of the rk sway bar links recommended for the 2.5", mine are 11" tf rear links in the front and 9" factory ford f 150 links in the rear. My e disco and links don't look like they will "flip" cuz they are not aligned in the full flex nite shot.
And also how much more "flex" will I get when I purchase the rk lca's cuz I think it flexes pretty Damn good with all the stock lca's but I love the high clearance rk arms and soon will get some
Oh by the way, the jeep flexes so much that it keeps pulling the rubber boots off the shock bodies lol, you can see it on the pic of the right side of my jeep on the fork lift
Thank you





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Will I need wheel spacers or adapters for stock wheels. Thanks for all of your help.

Sent from my MB855 using JK-Forum

I have a 2.5x-factor on my '12 2dr rubi. Stock rear bumper and spare. There is only about 1" clearance between trac bar and exhaust pipe and everytime I hit any kind of bump, dip, pothole etc. they bang together. The coating is almost gone off the trac bar. Needless to say its annoying having to slow down for every little thing. Any suggestions? What options do I have? Thanks in advance!

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Its deceiving. The front fender flair is actually higher than the rear when the jk is level. Measure each end of the rubi rail to the ground... I bet it is close to level.

Another member on here has his RK drag link hitting the track bar bolt on your drag link flip kits track bar bolt. I had the same , but I added washers to the steering stops to prevent it. My RK lower control arms are at their shortest length at a 4.5 inch lift and my upper RK's are dialed in for a perfect pinion angle for my DC driveshaft. Is there anything else we can do to prevent the contact?

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