Rough Country 2.5 BB
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: Maplewood, MN
Originally Posted by jrhouse24
If you aren't going to go up in tire size you do not need a 2.5" lift. You just need a leveling kit which is about 1.75". If you put on a 2.5" lift that most people fill out with 33x12.50's or in a lot of cases 35x12.50's it will look strange in my opinion. I drove my jeep to the tire place with the stock 32" tires and 2.5" lift and I was hoping no one saw me the whole way there. It looked goofy. But it's your jeep so do what makes you happy.
Thanks.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 481
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From: Dyersburg, TN
2.5 Rough Country...
The 2.5 kit is a great starting point for any JK owner looking for a better stance and tire clearance for moderate off-roading. As for adding all the brackets...yes I would personally add the rear track bar bracket and drop brackets. For the cost it is definitely to your advantage to have them. Honestly I wish we only offered the kit with them all. 
Now to address the issue of more up keep for lifted vehicles. There are many variables that factor in to upkeep or maintenance such as control arm angles, tire size, level of wheeling, and most important "the driver". A lot of people fell that their jeep has superpowers once it is lifted as long as you drive technically and not all gas pedal you should not wear parts any faster than normal. Please keep the track bar tight...Jeep's factory mount flexes that's why there is a need to re-torque so often. Hope this helps.
Now to address the issue of more up keep for lifted vehicles. There are many variables that factor in to upkeep or maintenance such as control arm angles, tire size, level of wheeling, and most important "the driver". A lot of people fell that their jeep has superpowers once it is lifted as long as you drive technically and not all gas pedal you should not wear parts any faster than normal. Please keep the track bar tight...Jeep's factory mount flexes that's why there is a need to re-torque so often. Hope this helps.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 345
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From: salem, ohio
450 installed....do it yourself and save the cash. I have a series II budget boost and it cost me 180 and did it myself. Its not hard. Just remember to torque bolts when vehicle is on the ground.
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: Maplewood, MN
I have 275s or 32" Goodyear wrangler tires, they are about 3/4" wider than stock, also I have 1.5" offsets with stock rims; do you guys think it'll look stupid if I add the 2.5" boost?
Thread Starter
JK Newbie
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: Maplewood, MN
Originally Posted by jrhouse24
this is what it'll look like
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=119177"/>
but keep in mind that this one has an aev bumper and that will make it look more aggressive. with a stock bumper it'll look even more strange
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=119177"/>
but keep in mind that this one has an aev bumper and that will make it look more aggressive. with a stock bumper it'll look even more strange
JK Newbie
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 53
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From: Oklahoma City
Im running the RC 2.5 BB on my 09 X model with Rubicon springs and shocks. My cousin and I installed the lift ourselves in about 4 hours. I got the lift (series II, $179.99) with the rear sway bar relocation bracket as well as the relocation brakeline brackets and shock ext. I'm very pleased with the lift and look it gave my JK. I have had zero problems with it! 
JK Enthusiast
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From: Kansas City home-town/ in Germany right now
DW is most often due to improper installation and/or maintenance. There is no reason anyone should have DW with a 2.5" BB.
If the shop is competent, they will loosen all the control arm and trackbar bolts when they install the lift. Then, they will wait to re-torque them to specs until the vehicle is back on the ground with the tires/wheels on. Then, they will have you return after driving at least 50 miles to re-torque the arms and trackbars with the vehicle on the ground (never on a car lift). Then, they will tell you to re-torque the control arms and trackbars at each oil change interval and after every major wheeling trip.
If the components are not torqued at the new ride height, the bolt sleeves and bushings will be twisted/bound/pre-loaded at the wrong ride height. This will destroy the bushings and cause the bolt sleeves to twist away from the bushings.
This isn't a stock control arm, but it shows what happens to the bushings when you torque components at anything other than ride height with the tires/wheels on and the vehicle on the ground:
Sounds like they are only charging around $300 for the lift install on your 4 dr JK.
If that is the case, spend the extra $240 to get the RC 3.25" lift and have them install it without the 0.75" rear coil spacers.
If the shop is competent, they will loosen all the control arm and trackbar bolts when they install the lift. Then, they will wait to re-torque them to specs until the vehicle is back on the ground with the tires/wheels on. Then, they will have you return after driving at least 50 miles to re-torque the arms and trackbars with the vehicle on the ground (never on a car lift). Then, they will tell you to re-torque the control arms and trackbars at each oil change interval and after every major wheeling trip.
If the components are not torqued at the new ride height, the bolt sleeves and bushings will be twisted/bound/pre-loaded at the wrong ride height. This will destroy the bushings and cause the bolt sleeves to twist away from the bushings.
This isn't a stock control arm, but it shows what happens to the bushings when you torque components at anything other than ride height with the tires/wheels on and the vehicle on the ground:
Sounds like they are only charging around $300 for the lift install on your 4 dr JK.
If that is the case, spend the extra $240 to get the RC 3.25" lift and have them install it without the 0.75" rear coil spacers.
Is the torque really needed for all the parts or just for the track bar?? I put my 2.5 rough country kit on and didn't torque I just went as tight as I could on the sway bar link bolts and shock bolts. but only put about 50 miles on it so far and might just go back and redo it now. Also i didn't loosen the control arm when i did mine that make that big of a diff? i have an appt tomorrow for an alignment will that fix anything that i might of done by not loosening the control arm?
Last edited by deltaneo1; Jan 18, 2011 at 09:34 AM.
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From: Kansas City home-town/ in Germany right now
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